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286 pages, Hardcover
First published June 11, 2012
Most armchair mountaineers are familiar with the tragedy in the Himalaya in 1996 when eight climbers died on Mt. Everest when they were trapped by weather in the “Death Zone” above 26000 feet on the highest mountain on earth. However, until I picked up Buried in the Sky: The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's Deadliest Day by Peter Zuckerman, I was completely unaware of a different climbing tragedy which occurred on K2 in 2008. An unexpected storm at altitude on K2, which is earth's second-highest mountain peak, took the lives of eleven climbers who were attempting to descend after summiting.
This is the story of that fiasco on K2 and the heroic rescue that kept the loss of life as low as it was. It is a cautionary tale of what happens when hubris meets a survival sport.
There were two intertwined threads that I found particularly fascinating. The first of these introduced me to “The Gilkey Memorial” which is a communal grave to the south of Base Camp at K2 between two glaciers. Named for Art Gilkey, an American who died climbing K2 in 1953, the Gilkey Memorial is a cairn of stones near Base Camp where climbers dispose of the human body parts found strewn each season about the mountain that the glaciers have disgorged.
As Peter Zuckerman describes it,
“The Gilkey Memorial is a grisly necessity because corpses rarely make it down the mountain in one piece. For Everest losses, families sometimes send a recovery team. This doesn't happen on K2. The Savage Mountain devours its victims during the long winter between climbing seasons. It encases the torsos in ice and grates them against the rocks, only to spit out the digested remains decades later, scattering limbs among the avalanche debris.
“When Art Gilkey's team gathered stones to honor their friend in 1953, they started a morbid tradition. To keep the campsites sanitary, climbers began using the memorial as a place to dispose of the fingers, pelvic bones, arms, heads, and legs found in the glacial melt. Burying these scraps under the Gilkey Memorial felt more respectful than leaving them to the ravens. For more than half a century, the memorial has been a place to caution the living and consecrate the dead. Mountaineers attempting K2 visit the site to remind themselves of what they are getting into......On hot days, the cairn stews with the scent of defrosting flesh, and the odor clings to mourners' hair and clothing.” (Buried in the Sky, p. 102).
The second thread which I found to be fascinating was a passage about the Buddhist rite known as “sky burial.” According to Peter Zuckerman,
“...[B]uddhists prefer to cremate the dead. The smoke carries the spirit to the sacred realm above...When someone dies above the timberline and it's hard to find firewood, a sky burial substitutes for cremation. Although outsiders consider sky burials barbaric, [to Buddhists] this was the sacred way to free the soul. During a sky burial, Buddhist lamas or others with religious authority carry the body to a platform on a hill. While burning incense and reciting mantras, they hack the corpse into chunks and slices. They pound the bones with a rock or hammer, beating the flesh into a pulp and mixing in tea, butter, and milk. The preparation attracts vultures, and the birds consume the carcass, carrying the spirit aloft and burying it in the sky, where it belongs.” (Buried in the Sky: The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's Deadliest Day, p. 103).
Wow. Just....Wow. My rating: 7.5/10, finished 9/15/19 (3391).