Floating on a Malayan Breeze: Travels in Malaysia and Singapore

by Sudhir Thomas Vadaketh

What happens when a country splits apart? Forty-five years ago, Singapore separated from Malaysia. Since then, the two countries have developed along their own paths. Malaysia has given preference to the majority of Malay Muslims - the bumiputera, or sons of the soil. Singapore, meanwhile, has tried to build a meritocracy - ostensibly color-blind, yet more encouraging perhaps to some Singaporeans than to others. How have these policies affected ordinary people? How do these two divergent nations and their peoples now see each other and the world around them?

Genres: Nonfiction, Travel, Asia, History

272 pages, Paperback

First published September 1, 2012

About the author

Sudhir Thomas Vadaketh writes for a variety of publications, including The Economist and Yahoo!SG.

Reviews

[Sue · Rating 4 out of 5]

Finding books to read in preparation for a trip to Singapore was not an easy task, especially as most of them tend to be weighty tomes about Lee Kwan Yoo. However this book is a gem. The young, Singaporean, American-educated author sets off with a Singapore friend to cycle around Malaysia for a month to try to discover what distinguishes his tiny island nation from its large mainland neighbor, especially as, upon independence, they were one. But after their union broke up, the two nations took different paths and today Singapore is a paragon of 21st century technology and meritocracy while Malaysia lags behind economically and socially. The last is my comment, not the author's. He is much less judgmental. However, after reading this book, the cultural mindset that led political and military officials to dissemble and delay when the public and the families cried for information regarding the loss of Malaysian Airlines flight 370 was much easier for me to understand.

[Cowboy Kubrick · Rating 4 out of 5]

"This is a story about Malaysia and Singapore—or Malaya, if you will."

How did it come that these two countries with a long shared history and culture have traced their different paths in the present day? Sudhir Varaketh takes us on a journey across West Malaysia and Singapore to answer this question. This is a superb travelogue-sociological analysis hybrid that drew me in from the first page. The analysis is well-expressed; but it is the interviews conducted along the course of our author's travels that propelled me to the finish. We meet a colourful cast of characters ranging from former communist guerillas, career policemen, entrepreneurs, and many others. In short, we meet the people of both countries. In hearing what the people of both countries have to say, I got an enlightening sense of how Malaysians and Singaporeans view not only each other, but also themselves.

Having had the good fortune to visit both countries (though I admittedly have much more to explore!) I was eager to learn more about them both. On the surface, of course, Singapore dazzles with the development and efficiency of its society. As Sudhir relates, the country may perhaps be the world's post-colonial economic success story bar none. But what is Singapore really? What do its people value? If money and business were removed from the equation, what is left of the Singaporean dream? Equally, what is Malaysia, and what should it be? Why is it that this country that has long been so close to Singapore and which is full of talented and diverse people, the most linguistically skilled I've met, has lagged behind in development? Are there aspects of life in Malaysia that are more desirable than in Singapore, if such a thing can be said? And finally, what may the two countries be able to learn from each other?

I found the questions posed by this book interesting and I deeply appreciated the impartiality afforded in its views. I think this owes much to the humanity with which Sudhir and his friend approached people from all backgrounds for their sincere views. Set against historical context and current events there are also anecdotes that delight and entertain. There is one point at which Sudhir discusses the Singaporean government's intervention in the love lives of its citizens with amusing effect. Then there was Singaporean taxi-driver Ishak, the son of a Malay-Chinese couple. When I read about the prejudice he experienced because of his race, I even found myself moved.

This book offers a fantastic view into contemporary Malaysian-Singaporean society and was gripping enough to distract me from my studies. Ah, I have no regrets. I found Chapter 8, which addresses race, to be the standout of the book owing to the skill with which the incredible influence of race in both societies is explored. I look forward to returning to the region and while I am savouring my teh tarik I will be happy to consider myself slightly more informed. And I will be ready to learn more.

[Michael · Rating 1 out of 5]

It's one of those strange hybrids - a travelogue that wants to be a thesis and vice versa.

I can't get into the travel section because the facts keep getting in the way.

I can't get into the facts because they are dully presented (with footnotes) which intrudes on the Lonely Planet musings.

In the end, it's just like being stuck between Singapore and Malaysia in no-man's land.

Perhaps the author should re-visit and stay at each capital and just write what he feels without being weighted down by history/social commentary.

[Patricia · Rating 4 out of 5]

A 'must read' for anyone who has lived or is living in Malaysia or Singapore or interested in the social, cultural, economic and political lives of its citizens.

Singaporean author Sudhir and a companion bicycle around Malaysia on a budget interviewing ordinary Malaysians to discover what 'being Malaysian' means and also discover what 'being Singaporean' means. During their journey, and in the subsequent years, this question continues to be asked, forcing out some hard truths and false conceptions about both countries. No party escapes whether it's the disappearing Malaysian Communist supporters of the 50's or today's PAP, nor government policies whether it's Malaysia's bumiputra entitlements or Singapore's censorship noose.

"When I started research for this book [2004]...Malaysians and Singaporeans alike appeared relatively content with their respective ruling parties, and were happy to live their lives quietly, under the democratic radar. Since then, a combination of forces--including policy missteps by the ruling parties, the emergence of more credible opposition candidates, and the widening of political space through the internet--has blown the lid off our hitherto politically apathetic countries" (p. 53).

The last chapter discusses 'happiness' as perceived by citizens of the two focus countries with some recommendations: "From Singapore, Malaysia can learn...the importance of building a race-neutral meritocracy and running an efficient, corruption-free government. From Malaysia, Singapore can learn...the fulfillment of non-material pursuits and the need to provide targeted assistance to those who may not be able to compete at the same level as others."

Singapore's shortfall in government-led programmes to help the elderly, the young, those born with disabilities and other special needs, has always shocked me in this first-world, wealthy city-state, so I confess this book resonated strongly with me.

A good balance of 'travels through Malaysia on a bicycle' and 'straight talk' about the past, present and future of two countries, now separate, who once shared their past.

[Jern-yi]

Great read! I love on the ground observations and interviews, and thought Sudhir's comments on Singaporean and Malaysian sociopolitical affairs of recent years were fair and interesting. Very accessible writing, good for noobs like me who want to learn more about recent Malaysian history.

[Ronnel Lim · Rating 4 out of 5]

The Singaporean Indian author, who used to be with the Economist, cycled around Peninsular Malaysia for a month, meeting and interviewing people along the way. This book is delightful, well-informed telling of the divergent paths Malaysia and Singapore took after they parted ways in 1965, touching on their societies, economics and politics.
This is a very good read to assign to Southeast Asia classes, and I know many ASEANies like playing this Singapore vs Malaysia parlor game. The chapter on race entitled Colour Matters stands out -- heartfelt and without obfuscation. And towards the end, the book unexpectedly veers toward a discussion of what makes for a better and happier life: communal, redistributive Malaysia or individualistic one-party Singapore. You will probably be rooting for the reunification of the two.

The author is writing a book on India and China tentatively called From Kerala to Shaolin. I know I will be reading and enjoying that too.

[Matt · Rating 3 out of 5]

A book with some good ideas and a good premise. However, it suffers from an uneven narrative, disorganization, and the especially annoying trait of the author of repeating that same points over and over and over again. Needed more lyrical writing with the bike riding segments and more facts and figures to support the thesis. Nevertheless, I would still highly recommend this book for those living in Malaysia or Singapore. You will definite relate to what the author is saying and it's hard to poke too many holes in his argument, even if it was a bit anecdotal.

[Shafiqah Nor · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you are Singaporean/Malaysian, this is a recommended read. The analyses is a map and pathway to progress.

This is not your usual history or geopolitical textbook. It is has local stories from the author's cycling travels, a conscious effort to deeply understand perception and politics of neighboring countries, beyond researching the rhetoric and dependence of just written sources.

The border between Malaysia and Singapore is one of the porous I know. I have always been confused by the divisive bilateral politics between the two countries, further escalated by the 'bickering' and clash of cultures between  the two nations. Cultures that really formed not long ago in history and within the lifetime of our parents.

Sudhir's premise really explains it:
Boundaries and national identities are politically constructed by the governments of both countries. Populations perpetuate this narrative and identity politics with the bickering.

We don't talk about it much but in 1963 Singapore did join the Federated States of Malaya. In 1965, it seceded. To thrive post-independence, this narrative of contrast/opposites was really institutionalized for Singapore to survive, particularly during its state-building years. Singapore defines itself by what it is NOT - and it is not Malaysia. Yet both states thrive on one-party politics.

There are contrasts but so often easily misunderstood. Over the decades, both countries now value very different things yet each measure the other nation's "success" against very different standards.

I can only speculate what productivity and prosperity could have actually sustained if otherwise.

Sudhir dives deep into structural, political, social, cultural and economics. He is bold, fair and balanced with his criticisms of both countries. His analyses were enlightening, nuanced and brilliantly articulated. I find myself in agreement with a lot of his claims. The anecdotes from his travels are vibrant, colourful and funny - I really enjoyed them.

Published in 2012 gives opportunity to see how some of the claims (eg on the elections) have aged since.

[David Stys · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’ve spent the last month and a half traveling around Malaysia. Living with Chinese at a Buddhist monastery, rock climbing with Malays in Perlis, and enjoying good energy and thoughtful conversations with some Tamils. This book has been excellent to work through as a means of expanding my view of this culture and society. I’ve found that Sudhir’s views and insights have primed my mind with challenging questions (as he notes, some locals prefer to stay away from the ‘challenging’, though). I feel like it was the perfect book for understanding Malay politics, economics, and history - I also like bike travel which tied together the sometimes dry and gossipy tones of politics with a healthy dose of adventure.

As a writer in his position, I think evenhandedness is paramount. A view balanced with alternate opinions and personal anecdotes hits deeper and impresses on the mind more than one tinged with partiality. I found examples of this balance in his account of Betty, the ex-communist Malay woman living in the Betong District of Thailand and his depiction of the night he and Sumana spent at the FELDA estate hardly sleeping out of worry of being robbed by Pip and his friends. There’s something I can relate to in the latter story as well.

I’m now in the south of Malaysia (Johor) and planning to head to Singapore for a few days. The book, although critical of many sides of Singapore has ironically brought some curiosity to what I may find on the other side (the consumerism and relentless chasing of $$$ reminds me of my home country in some ways).

If I had any critique it would be the amount of political detail through the book. I felt like I read ‘Barisan Nacional’ and ‘UMNO’ and ‘Bumiputera policies’ one too many times. I felt as well that an update to the book that would include political and economic developments over the last 10 years would make it relevant for readers in 2023.

Overall, great view into these countries.

[Low Chin Chau · Rating 4 out of 5]

Bought "Floating on a Malayan breeze" by Sudhir Vadaketh seven years ago on a friend's recommendation. It sat in my Kindle stack glanced at but finished until just before GE2020. The election and Sudhir.TV reminded me to restart and finally finish it

The book was published in 2012, one year after the 2011 election that witnessed the lowest popular vote share for the ruling party and the Worker's Party winning a GRC. That was also the first election that I felt excited and involved (and enjoyed my 5 mins of fame when one of my tweets made it on TV).

The book is centred loosely around a travelogue about two friends taking a 30 day bicycle trip around East Malaysia, their observations, conversations and interviews. It is, in addition, a well referenced commentary on the cultural, social, economic and political developments in both Singapore and Malaysia.

Split from a common origin about 50 years ago, the countries provided an opportunity to compare the effects of the separation and styles of government. Among the issues explored are the different approaches life, to address economic progress and inequality. Particularly interesting to me is how many Malaysians believe that the bumiputra policies are more equatable and acceptable than our "meritocracy based" policies.

Though the book was published 8 years ago, part from a few details (like the recent Malaysian government changes, Iskandar, etc) many observations, issues discussed, and historical backgrounds are still relevant and insightful. For me, I'm reminded of the nuances and perspectives that are often lost in the cacophony of political debates.

[Rachel Ashton Lim · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book starts off strong. It is littered with little nuggets of observations that were a joy to see spelled out on paper, for me as a Singaporean, because they made me reflect on the aspects of me life and upbringing that i’d never thought of before, but that feel intuitive and got me thinking.

The writing however also suffers from a disorganized narrative, and lots of repetition. Towards the latter half of the book i stopped learning anything about my country, and it started becoming a book for foreigners to learn about malaysia and singapore, because the observations were so, well, obvious.

I’d recommend the book to people wanting to read widely about the region, and for foreigners to gain a sense of what an everyday Singaporean (educated abroad) might think and feel about it.

I just wish it was structured more logically, and with more emphasis on the experience and individuals they encountered on the cycling journey rather than disjointed, disconnected high level thoughts with little stringing them from beginning to end.

[Marta · Rating 2 out of 5]

Although the scope of the book was interesting, this was not the book that I was expecting. It is also quite dated (2000s up to 2011).

It focused too much on the writer's point of view during his bike tour around Malaysia and his remarks about Malaysian society and comparisons with Singapore were in my opinion too biased (the author is Singaporean) and a bit condescending.

Nevertheless, I read the entire book as I found many interesting facts about the politics and society of both countries and it was written from a local point of view.

[Victor · Rating 2 out of 5]

I did not like the writing style of the book. The writing style is very janky, Singlish seemed forced (or perhaps not so suitable) into writing. The points made seem to have a high mixture of subjective, speculation written as facts, and statistically-backed observations. It was a mixed of political and economic observation and a travel log, which did not integrate smoothly for me.

[Reads Books]

Read in one sitting. Nice panoramic sketch of the socio-political landscape in Malaysia and Singapore as seen through the eyes of the locals.

[André · Rating 4 out of 5]

It is not really a travel book but one of the best sociological observations on Malaysia and Singapore I have read. Though I do not agree with the author on all of his deductions it is a must read for everyone interested in socio-economical and socio-political development in Malaysia and/or Singapore.

[Vidhya Nair · Rating 4 out of 5]

An excellent debut. He combines a travelogue with a political review of the current spore-msian relationship. The idea of a Malayan while personalized does evoke nostalgia for what was once there & what life could have been if the 2 countries remained a single nation. A book that makes you think, understand your own heritage and identity while questioning who really decides your destiny.

[Javad · Rating 5 out of 5]

Amazing. Sudhir says things that so many Singaporeans think but are too afraid to say. This book is the perfect introduction to Singapore and Malaysia for foreigners and locals alike. When I grow up, I want to be like Sudhir!

[Hood Thabit · Rating 3 out of 5]

A good effort at trying to create a collaborative dialogue between the neighboring countries, in particular from the view of the man in the street. Felt that the traveling bits should have been longer though, and more descriptive.

[Aik Lim · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderful read on the socio-economic and socio-political developments that have shaped the current Singapore and Malaysia that we see today. A must read for anyone now working in this part of the world for a good appreciation of the peculiarities and achievements of the two countries.

[Kyle · Rating 3 out of 5]

A little bit repetitive, but interesting look into the politics of Malaysia and Singapore through the lens if a couple of intrepid cyclists. Bounced around a bit too much for me as well, but it was my first good entre into that part of the world

[Mohd Qhairul · Rating 4 out of 5]

its a clear view of malayan (singapore&malaysian) lifestyle,politics and thinking.. its a pros and cons between this country

[Wan Peter · Rating 4 out of 5]

The best travel book to read. A truly tremendous heart warming tales relating to the past and the new politics.
Sin - Armenia