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296 pages, Hardcover
First published November 3, 2015
How can a nation be called great if its bread tastes like Kleenex?
[- Julia Child, from "How to Avoid TV Dinners While Watching TV" by Joan Barthel, The New York Times Magazine, p. 34, August 7, 1966.]
Because most scales do not accurately measure ingredients such as spices or salt lighter than 10 grams, these are dictated in volume amounts. [1 | Kitchen Notes . An Artisan's Toolbox: Digital Scale]
The crunch of decay underfoot and the sharp odor of gingko berries signal to the gardener that, finally, once can breathe deep the signs of change. The days are shortening, and it is time to reap the rewards of the season. [...] Along comes autumn with its permission to feast and relax — ripe with sweet root vegetables, inspiring leaf patterns, and just enough chill to seek a little snuggling. [...] This is the season of reflection and an opportunity to return to the kitchen. [4 | Autumn Harvest]
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Other than the shuffle of our boots and the occasional call of our loyal raptor population, there was little life pushing forth in late February. [...] This is when I discovered the joy of bringing forth life myself, in the kitchen through sprouting. [...] There might be a blizzard blowing just outside my window, but I could witness the miracle of life on my countertop! [...] Wheat becomes grassier, buckwheat nuttier, rye earthier. Breads baked with sprouted grains have a toothsome quality they've never possessed before, and pastries acquire a subtle freshness unlocked by the development of natural sugars. Because what is the point of eating healthy if it doesn't taste absolutely delicious? [5 | Winter Dormancy]
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Spring resurrects the spirit from quiet dormancy with a flurry of life, which gains momentum with the lengthening of daylight. Trees sport a fresh green that glows neon frm the tips of their branches, braving lingering flurries and winter's reluctance to pass. [...] The senses that have awakened to the pleasing smell of wet earth, sprouting seedlings, and blossoming trees sharpen witht eh aroma of a robust, naturally leavened loaf emerging from the oven. [6 | Spring Rebirth]
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Breezy dresses, elderflower-laced cocktails, laughter at dusk from a blanket while fireflies dance under the trees…these are the activities celebrated under the spell of luminosity. [7 | Summer Sun Worship]
Most of these summer recipes accommodate a menu requiring little time in the kitchen. I am wary about keeping the stove lit for too long, as there is no need to compete with rising outside temperatures. Utilizing the grill or nothing at all to make the rest of the meal is my pref,adorning a crusty slice of bread with prosciutto to accompany a hearty salad or quickly sautéed greens. [7 | Summer Sun Worship]
If you want to retard your loaves for an extended period (more than 8 hours), keep your refrigerator temperature hovering around 37°F or 38°F, especially during summer. You may find that a fridge kept at the typical 41°F may be too warm.
[1 | Kitchen Notes . Terminology: retardation]
Sourdough leavening can make some traditionally light and fluffy recipes a bit heavier. [6 | Spring Rebirth . Dandelion and Chive Popovers]
Always bring your ingredients to room temperature, unless otherwise noted. This will assist in incorporating them into the batter without overmixing.
Attempting to mix cold ingredients, especially starter, will result in a frustrated baker, a streaky batter, and uneven baking. I also recommend using a fork to break and disperse the starter into the batter instead of stirring with a spoon. Avoid using a hand mixer, which encourages gluten development in the starter, undesirable for the [1 | Kitchen Notes . Techniques: Mixing Batters and Pastry that Include Starter]
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Salt also regulates fermentation, which can be helpful in warm weather or when using a high percentage of whole grains. It also acts as a preservative, lengthening the life of the bread. Finally, it also influences the coloring of bread crust as well as brightens the flavor of fruit. [2 | Stocking the Pantry . Salt]
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If weeds constantly overrun your garden rows, ask yourself what those are and why they are growing there. Put down the hoe long enough to consider what the weeds are telling you. [...] Learning what weeds thrive where will also give you clues to your soil's profile. For example, the tasty plantain will often appear when soil is compacted, possibly leading you to plant a crop that would aerate the soil. [1 | Kitchen Notes . Bringing the Garden into the kitchen
To engage in baking with something unpredictable that responds to every slight difference in temperature, humidity, and—dare I say—even our mood requires some awareness. To become a better baker is to be fully present in the process from start to finish. This is an involved endeavor and one that requires you to slow down and listen. You will become quite intimate with the more poetic elements of sourdough over time, engaging all your senses. Get used to sniffing your starter before and after a feed. Does it smell fruity or sour? Use your hands not only to guide the dough but also to measure its development. [3 | Sourdough Primer . Inspired Living]
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[I]f a recipe calls for a quick leavening agent such as baking soda or powder, these will be weakened after 3 to 4 hours in a mixed batter. [3 | Sourdough Primer . Scheduling Sourdough in the Kitchen
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Compost tea can be used as a foliar application to liven up summer-weary plants or as a drench to balance the fungal and bacterial activity of soil. [Sourdough Primer . Primordial Parallels and the Soil Food Web]
The stalls of the mercado were grouped by similar vendors, partitioned off from other kinds. The meats were separate from the fish, which were separate from the vegetables, grains, various exotic fruits, and so on. Up the hill and off to the side was a little enclave of women and their children making flatbreads over hot coals. I watched as they stuffed what seemed like a coarse whole-grain, unleavened dough with queso fresco, the cheese that is ubiquitous in Ecuador. Curious, I tried a warm sample. Its surprisingly sweet and nutty barley flavor was strong, and it was obviously made from freshly ground flour. I had never tasted barley this fresh and alive; it made all the difference in the flavor of this bread. [5 | Winter Dormancy . Saraguro Cheese Bread]
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My Momma sighs every time I call to ask for her biscuit recipe. Patiently, she reminds me of the wise words my great grandmother — a Rubenesque, big-boned mountain woman — said to her when asked the same. Mamaw insisted that if you made biscuits often enough, you would learn the recipe. Well, fine. But I can't really publish that as a recipe, now can I?! Ambiguity is one thing, intuitive execution is another, but Momma wouldn't even reveal an estimated cup measurement. After half a dozen phone conversations with few hints other than "crumbled texture," "work fast," and "hot oven," I consulted a few more of my Southern resources. [6 | Spring Rebirth . Buttermilk Biscuits]