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Gatecrashing Paradise: Misadventure in the Real Maldives
"Highly readable Bill Bryson-esque travel writing." - Daily Telegraph
Away from the five-star hotels and beyond luxury hideaways, Tom Chesshyre travels to see the real, unexplored Maldives, skirting around the archipelago's periphery, staying at simple guesthouses, and using cargo ships and ferries. He discovers that beyond the glossy brochures lies an almost undiscovered country that is brimming with life, yet also a paradise teetering on the brink of trouble.
In the Maldives outsiders used to be banned from islands not officially endorsed as tourist resorts, but now a thousand sandy shores can be visited in this remote nation deep in the Indian Ocean - the flattest on Earth.
This is island-hopping for the twenty-first century, sailing around 600 miles of the most beautiful islands and atolls on Earth, often to communities that have not seen an outsider for decades, and gatecrashing the odd posh hotel.
Away from the five-star hotels and beyond luxury hideaways, Tom Chesshyre travels to see the real, unexplored Maldives, skirting around the archipelago's periphery, staying at simple guesthouses, and using cargo ships and ferries. He discovers that beyond the glossy brochures lies an almost undiscovered country that is brimming with life, yet also a paradise teetering on the brink of trouble.
In the Maldives outsiders used to be banned from islands not officially endorsed as tourist resorts, but now a thousand sandy shores can be visited in this remote nation deep in the Indian Ocean - the flattest on Earth.
This is island-hopping for the twenty-first century, sailing around 600 miles of the most beautiful islands and atolls on Earth, often to communities that have not seen an outsider for decades, and gatecrashing the odd posh hotel.
- GenresTravelNonfictionAsia
276 pages, Paperback
Published November 27, 2014
9 people are currently reading
125 people want to read
About the author
Tom Chesshyre
19 books33 followersTom Chesshyre has been writing travel stories for UK national newspapers for over15 years. After reading politics at Bristol University and completing a journalism diploma from City University, he had stints at the Cambridge Evening News, Sporting Life and Sky Sports. During this period he won the Independent's young sports writer of the year competition and was runner-up in the Financial Times young business writer awards. His first travel piece was about England's cricket fans in Barbados for the Daily Telegraph. He freelanced for the Daily and Sunday Telegraphs, wrote a column for Conde Nast Traveller, and contributed to the Express, the Guardian, and the Independent, before working on the travel desk of the Times. He has assisted with the research on two books - W. G. by Robert Low, a biography of W. G. Grace, and Carlos: Portrait of a Terrorist by Colin Smith, a biography of "Carlos the Jackal". He has written magazine pieces for Wanderlust, Geographical and Business Traveller - and contributes book reviews to the TLS. His travel writing has taken him to more than 75 countries. He lives in south-west London and was born in 1971.
His first book, How Low Can You Go: Round Europe for 1p Each Way (Plus Tax) was published by Hodder in 2007. To Hull and Back: On Holiday in Unsung Britain was published by Summersdale in July 2010, followed by Tales from the Fast Trains: Europe at 186 mph is published in July 2011.
His first book, How Low Can You Go: Round Europe for 1p Each Way (Plus Tax) was published by Hodder in 2007. To Hull and Back: On Holiday in Unsung Britain was published by Summersdale in July 2010, followed by Tales from the Fast Trains: Europe at 186 mph is published in July 2011.
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Displaying 1 - 9 of 9 reviews
May 31, 2019
If you were to mention the Maldives to most people they would conjure up images of pristine beaches and luxury hotels. This champagne lifestyle comes at a price though, not only is it expensive to go there, the Beckhams were rumoured to have spent £250k on one holiday alone, but there has been a human cost to this lifestyle for the residents and workers of the island. On top of that, the Maldives is in a perilous position. It is the lowest country in the world, only nudging a few meters above the waves and will be affected by climate change as sea levels rise.
Having previously had a strong Buddhist influence, the country is a Muslim country that is not as strict as others, for example, alcohol was allowed in certain places, but it still could be quite draconian at times. The country was run by a Maumoon Abdul Gayoom for 30 years after he won six consecutive elections without opposition. It was the only country in the world not to have a political party, even China has one political party. For most visitors, all that they would have been able to see was the luxury resorts and a little of the islands they were designated to holiday on. Most would be blissfully unaware of the history of the place. This was because islands in the archipelago that were not designated ‘tourist resorts’ were off limits to any outsiders. The rules have been relaxed now and this means that Tom Chessyre had the opportunity to see what real life was like there for residents and immigrants.
Travelling between the various islands on cargo boats and other craft is a good way to meet the locals and the people that work in the resorts. He does end up in a couple of the luxury resort for the odd night or two, but most of the time he is staying in guesthouses run by the locals. It makes it much easier to tease out the stories that they have of their country. Given how draconian the regime is, some were reluctant to speak, or if they did then they have been anonymised by Chessyre. We hear of their fears and hope for the country as well as he is prepared to let people confide in him. A lot of people were affected by the 2004 tsunami, and the atolls are very vulnerable given their height; there is no high land to retreat to when the waves sweep in and the future seems bleak for some residents. I thought this was really good, insightful reportage and travel writing of the other side of an island paradise.
Having previously had a strong Buddhist influence, the country is a Muslim country that is not as strict as others, for example, alcohol was allowed in certain places, but it still could be quite draconian at times. The country was run by a Maumoon Abdul Gayoom for 30 years after he won six consecutive elections without opposition. It was the only country in the world not to have a political party, even China has one political party. For most visitors, all that they would have been able to see was the luxury resorts and a little of the islands they were designated to holiday on. Most would be blissfully unaware of the history of the place. This was because islands in the archipelago that were not designated ‘tourist resorts’ were off limits to any outsiders. The rules have been relaxed now and this means that Tom Chessyre had the opportunity to see what real life was like there for residents and immigrants.
Travelling between the various islands on cargo boats and other craft is a good way to meet the locals and the people that work in the resorts. He does end up in a couple of the luxury resort for the odd night or two, but most of the time he is staying in guesthouses run by the locals. It makes it much easier to tease out the stories that they have of their country. Given how draconian the regime is, some were reluctant to speak, or if they did then they have been anonymised by Chessyre. We hear of their fears and hope for the country as well as he is prepared to let people confide in him. A lot of people were affected by the 2004 tsunami, and the atolls are very vulnerable given their height; there is no high land to retreat to when the waves sweep in and the future seems bleak for some residents. I thought this was really good, insightful reportage and travel writing of the other side of an island paradise.
October 23, 2015
This is a really good "behind the scenes" book on the idyllic Maldives.
We were fortunate enough to honeymoon in the Maldives in 2007, on a tiny island with 48 villas and over 100 staff to service them. It really was a heaven-on-earth. But this kind of luxury honeymoon idyll is only part of the story. Tom Chesshyre's book goes (pretty much) behind the scenes of the 5 star luxury resorts and looks at the life of the real Maldivians.
It covers a lot of the political turmoil that has hit the islands, as well as covering the historical and religious background of this island nation. The people he meets are full of character that it really brings the book to life.
By travelling via ferry and commercial boats, and staying in small guesthouses and people's own homes, the book really brings the Maldives to life.
Above all, with tourism only permitted on "local islands" very recently, this travelogue is all written with the feeling that Tom is the first person to have completed this journey. Something that is really quite remarkable in this day and age.
Highly recommended.
We were fortunate enough to honeymoon in the Maldives in 2007, on a tiny island with 48 villas and over 100 staff to service them. It really was a heaven-on-earth. But this kind of luxury honeymoon idyll is only part of the story. Tom Chesshyre's book goes (pretty much) behind the scenes of the 5 star luxury resorts and looks at the life of the real Maldivians.
It covers a lot of the political turmoil that has hit the islands, as well as covering the historical and religious background of this island nation. The people he meets are full of character that it really brings the book to life.
By travelling via ferry and commercial boats, and staying in small guesthouses and people's own homes, the book really brings the Maldives to life.
Above all, with tourism only permitted on "local islands" very recently, this travelogue is all written with the feeling that Tom is the first person to have completed this journey. Something that is really quite remarkable in this day and age.
Highly recommended.
April 8, 2015
We visited The Maldives on our honeymoon 19 years ago. Whilst our paradise island was certainly idyllic and our visit to the capital Male was interesting I was left frustrated that we could only experience the tourist version of The Maldives and I was left wanting to know more about the islands and it's people.
Recently the Maldivian government have relaxed their rules on tourism and visitors can now travel to areas outside of the high end tourist resorts. Tom Chesshyre goes off the beaten track visiting islands where tourists have not visited before and spending time with the locals.
The book explores areas that are a threat to the islands; namely climate change, political corruption and the rise of Islamic extremism. It also touches on the exploitation of immigrants from Bangladesh, sadly The Maldives is not the only Asian country that I have visited where I have witnessed this.
I would be interested to read more on some of the subjects addressed in the book. However this book gave an interesting insight into the "real" Maldives.
Recently the Maldivian government have relaxed their rules on tourism and visitors can now travel to areas outside of the high end tourist resorts. Tom Chesshyre goes off the beaten track visiting islands where tourists have not visited before and spending time with the locals.
The book explores areas that are a threat to the islands; namely climate change, political corruption and the rise of Islamic extremism. It also touches on the exploitation of immigrants from Bangladesh, sadly The Maldives is not the only Asian country that I have visited where I have witnessed this.
I would be interested to read more on some of the subjects addressed in the book. However this book gave an interesting insight into the "real" Maldives.
September 1, 2020
Good book about the reality of life on the Maldives.
The Maldives is known as the honeymoon place, except for the Beckhams who had a family vacation there. Travel journalist Tom Chesshyre traveled to the Maldives to find the real islands to discover what life is like on this islands. Prior to 2004 (or thereabouts), foreigners were only allowed in the country except to visit the resorts. The author traveled there in 2012. Of the 1192 islands, he visited about 20 of them traveling by cargo ship, ferries, dhonis (local sailing boats), and prop planes. He stayed in small hotels or guesthouses or a spare room in someone's house.
What is the real Maldives like? Well, it´s not like the luxury resorts. This is a muslim country with an extremist faction. This faction once went into a local museum and destroyed all of the Buddhist or Hindu relics, before becoming an islamist country, the Maldives where buddhists or hindu. They are also pressuring the government to mandate headscarves for women and to forbid alcohol and spas which would be detrimental to tourism. Currently, there is no alcohol allowed except at resorts.
There are dark secrets on the island especially politically. Prior to visiting the islands, the author interviewed a prison torture victim who has fled the country and lives in England. One person described the torture like Abu Ghraib. Two women recalled the story that they were arrested at a protest and labeled as terrorists, they laughed at it now. In addition, many of the workers on the island are Bangladeshi. They are basically slaves. Often they are not paid and cannot leave because their employer keeps their passports.
The Maldives is the lowest country on earth. A tsunami hit the islands in 2004. Almost every island, except in the far north, was affected. Everyone has a tsunami story whether it's holding onto a tree or living in a refugee camp on another island. A new island near the capital, relatively speaking, is being reclaimed from the sea and made 2 meters high. It doesn't sound very high but it is. The island is Hulhumale. This island is for the exploding population. Is the government afraid that the ocean will destroy this islands? Yes, some are. One of the previous leaders isn't sold on climate change, though.
The author enjoyed his visit. Besides spending a couple days at 2 resorts, he visited ruinous Buddhist temples called stupas, a former RAF base in the far south of the islands, took a whale sub(submarine to see the corals and marine life), beautiful sunsets and sandy white beaches.
This opened my eyes about the Maldives because all I knew were the resorts, not that I have ever visited. Good book.
The Maldives is known as the honeymoon place, except for the Beckhams who had a family vacation there. Travel journalist Tom Chesshyre traveled to the Maldives to find the real islands to discover what life is like on this islands. Prior to 2004 (or thereabouts), foreigners were only allowed in the country except to visit the resorts. The author traveled there in 2012. Of the 1192 islands, he visited about 20 of them traveling by cargo ship, ferries, dhonis (local sailing boats), and prop planes. He stayed in small hotels or guesthouses or a spare room in someone's house.
What is the real Maldives like? Well, it´s not like the luxury resorts. This is a muslim country with an extremist faction. This faction once went into a local museum and destroyed all of the Buddhist or Hindu relics, before becoming an islamist country, the Maldives where buddhists or hindu. They are also pressuring the government to mandate headscarves for women and to forbid alcohol and spas which would be detrimental to tourism. Currently, there is no alcohol allowed except at resorts.
There are dark secrets on the island especially politically. Prior to visiting the islands, the author interviewed a prison torture victim who has fled the country and lives in England. One person described the torture like Abu Ghraib. Two women recalled the story that they were arrested at a protest and labeled as terrorists, they laughed at it now. In addition, many of the workers on the island are Bangladeshi. They are basically slaves. Often they are not paid and cannot leave because their employer keeps their passports.
The Maldives is the lowest country on earth. A tsunami hit the islands in 2004. Almost every island, except in the far north, was affected. Everyone has a tsunami story whether it's holding onto a tree or living in a refugee camp on another island. A new island near the capital, relatively speaking, is being reclaimed from the sea and made 2 meters high. It doesn't sound very high but it is. The island is Hulhumale. This island is for the exploding population. Is the government afraid that the ocean will destroy this islands? Yes, some are. One of the previous leaders isn't sold on climate change, though.
The author enjoyed his visit. Besides spending a couple days at 2 resorts, he visited ruinous Buddhist temples called stupas, a former RAF base in the far south of the islands, took a whale sub(submarine to see the corals and marine life), beautiful sunsets and sandy white beaches.
This opened my eyes about the Maldives because all I knew were the resorts, not that I have ever visited. Good book.
January 10, 2020
This is the story of the authro's time traveling around the Maldives many islands. He is a travel writer, so he wanted to get an inside look of life in the Maldives beyond the beautiful oceans and resorts that tourist see. He sailed around almost 600 miles of islands on his trip to the Maldives discussing jobs, cuisine, politics, religion, and general life with the locals.
I really liked this book. There aren't a lot of books about the Maldives that aren't travel books for tourist, so I was happy to find this one. Over the last year I have read quite a few books like this where journalist talk to locals and get a different perspective on a country. It is quickly becoming a favorite way for me to learn about a country. Chesshyre spent a long time with the locals around many of the islands that make up the Maldives. I learned a lot about the history and culture of this country thanks to his book. I am glad I found it.
March 20, 2023
perfect for your thoughtful trip
Notwithstanding the somewhat awkward and misleading title, Chesshyre’s musings during his meanderings through the Maldives display a lovely insight into the people, the place, and the issues Maldivians find themselves facing. I read this from my sun lounger, and it was a perfect accompaniment to our vacation. This reads easily and is possibly the best introduction to modern Maldives.
Notwithstanding the somewhat awkward and misleading title, Chesshyre’s musings during his meanderings through the Maldives display a lovely insight into the people, the place, and the issues Maldivians find themselves facing. I read this from my sun lounger, and it was a perfect accompaniment to our vacation. This reads easily and is possibly the best introduction to modern Maldives.
July 9, 2017
Easily readable and amusing summary of the geography, history and current political state of the Maldives. Likeable enough to search out some of Chesshyre's other offerings.
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Displaying 1 - 9 of 9 reviews