New York Times Bestseller Named one of the Best Cookbooks of the Year by the Chicago Tribune, New York Times, Boston Globe, San Francisco Chronicle, Atlanta Journal-Constitution, Houston Chronicle, Esquire, GQ, Eater , and more Named one of the Best Cookbooks to Give as Gifts by Food & Wine, Bon Appétit, Esquire, Field & Stream, New York Magazine’s The Strategist, The Daily Beast, Eater, Vogue, Business Insider, GQ, Epicurious , and more “An indispensable manual for home cooks and pro chefs.” — Wired At Noma—four times named the world’s best restaurant—every dish includes some form of fermentation, whether it’s a bright hit of vinegar, a deeply savory miso, an electrifying drop of garum, or the sweet intensity of black garlic. Fermentation is one of the foundations behind Noma’s extraordinary flavor profiles. Now René Redzepi, chef and co-owner of Noma, and David Zilber, the chef who runs the restaurant’s acclaimed fermentation lab, share never-before-revealed techniques to creating Noma’s extensive pantry of ferments. And they do so with a book conceived specifically to share their knowledge and techniques with home cooks. With more than 500 step-by-step photographs and illustrations, and with every recipe approachably written and meticulously tested, The Noma Guide to Fermentation takes readers far beyond the typical kimchi and sauerkraut to include koji, kombuchas, shoyus, misos, lacto-ferments, vinegars, garums, and black fruits and vegetables. And—perhaps even more important—it shows how to use these game-changing pantry ingredients in more than 100 original recipes. Fermentation is already building as the most significant new direction in food (and health). With The Noma Guide to Fermentation , it’s about to be taken to a whole new level.
As a home cook who has done a fair amount of lacto-fermentation, alcoholic fermentation, some acetic acid fermentation, bread-baking, and with miso and meju fermenting as I write, I found the book both illuminating and stingy, like the kind of smart person you sometimes meet at parties who will say an intriguing thing, and you are just sure they know something really interesting and they're holding back because "This is a party, and I'm not going to digress. It's in bad taste." I know that what Noma has published here is the tenth part of what they've tried. They mention it here and there. Well, I want to know what they've tried! Everything! No? Why not? Come on, guys, I'm cool, you can tell me. I won't snitch.
I fault this book on the count of it being a bit too thick and show-offy* for the content and readership. I can recognize that this book is going to be intimidating for new fermenters. More than one of the recipes call for caviar, and many have that "A simple pan-seared wing of skate simply dressed with a reduction sauce..." kind of flippancy that makes you feel like you're definitely going to have to go to the fish counter and spend $20 only to ruin the skate in a pan full of blackened, smoking sauce, and there aren't even any suggestions for side dishes to go with it.
Its audience is definitely people like me, who have already gone pretty deep with fermenting, even done a miso or shoyu, but the results have been unreliable, or we're stuck for what to do next, or we just need some kind of spark.
Are there sparks? Yes. This book is like a live wire. That's not my complaint. My complaint is that if I'm not intimated by the idea of making a 9-month-long recipe for a condiment made of grasshoppers and wax worms, then I probably don't really need a 6-pound textbook with 500 glossy pages and maybe 10,000 words total of writing sitting on my already-overcrowded cookbook shelf. I feel like this book could have been much smaller in format without losing any readership or any information or clarity. I have Wild Fermentation by Sandor Katz, which arguably covers as wide a range of fermentation techniques (though different ones) in a much smaller format, and is at least as can-do as this book. That's my complaint, in a nutshell. If Katz weren't a vegetarian and had covered garum sauces instead of seitan and blackening nuts, fruits, and vegetables instead of making bread, you could have fit this entire book into a space as small as that book is. You could have even saved space by not making dubious nutrition claims like Katz does.
Back to the content itself, it's great. Potentially revolutionary, because the whole point of the book is that the techniques can be applied to non-traditional (read: local) ingredients for interesting results. I picked up this book because I had wanted to try making miso and fermented Korean-type pastes out of North American ingredients like scarlet runner beans or vetch seeds. I'm encouraged to give a go. It gave me an idea of a new way to deal with the problem of whole wheat bread never being quite as good as white bread (though bread-baking is not covered specifically in the book.) Definitely was worth the read. But I'm glad I didn't buy it, and rented it from the library. I will summarize the big things into a pocket notebook and return the weighty tome to the library, where it may strain their shelving instead of mine.
*Fancy, show-offy foods will clog up the body with unnecessary detail. -The Healthy Gang, Don't Hug Me I'm Scared 5
I was hoping for something that was more useful for the home fermenter, but was well written and fell into a life style porn genre for me - beautiful foodie experience that is far and away from my office job, kid wrangling and elder care. Not what I was looking for, but well written.
This was another one of those books that took a subject that I'm passionate about and wanted to learn more about, and convinced me that I probably shouldn't even try. I know that's not the goal, but it really makes it seem absolutely expensive, fiddly and complicated. I highly recommend Sandor Katz's fermentation books if you want to feel inspired and actually do the things you're reading out. This will be a good fit for people who just want to be impressed with the process or for really hard core folks. It wasn't a good fit for me.
I read a temporary digital ARC of this book for the purpose of review.
this book was fascinating but absolutely impractical even for my extremely extra fermentation loving ass self
also I like my kombucha recipe better than theirs. idk!!! I do feel like I learned so much, the chemistry was the exact right level of depth for a non scientist culinary nerd.
Really beautiful and well-written, but c'mon. I'm gonna make a fermentation chamber in my basement to make miso? Gonna age vinegar for like 4 years in a wine barrel? So, I don't really know who this book is for. Other cooks that also have an entire fermentation department at their restaurant?
Interesting to learn about everything, but this isn't something the average person can act on.
I made the blueberries, and they were OK. If I ran a restaurant, I would be trying everything in the book. Lovely, clear presentation and easier to work from than Sandor Katz, but a bit much for me as a home cook.
This book provides introductions to many ferments, but the instructions are short and limited with most ferments not providing a "shelf-life" which just feels dangerous to omit. If you are already an avid fermenter this book will definitely give you a few new ideas. But please research these ferments in other sources before getting started to learn how and why they work along with instructions for processing that do not rely on single use plastics.
It's a bible of fermentation. I've been working my way through every part of this during COVID season and absolutely loving what it does to my food and for my cooking. I haven't found another book like it, and it's a staple in my house.
Google The Noma Guide to Fermentation and you’ll find book reviews ranging from “fiddly and complicated”, “illuminating and stingy” and “fascinating but absolutely impractical”, to “the holy grail of fermentation” and “this book is crack for any chef or person genuinely passionate”.
With such a variety of opinions, how do you know if René Redzepi and David Zilber's literary brainchild is worth your time?
Don’t worry, I’ll guide you through the basic layout, highlights and criticisms so that you can decide of yourself.
A QUICK LOOK INSIDE THE BOOK:
The No. 1 issue with this book, has nothing to do with the book itself, but instead the readers expectations. Whether it’s assumed that “guide to fermentation” means covering all fermentation methods, or that the association with Noma garners a certain standard of prestige; either way, I highly recommend putting aside your assumptions and firstly reading the “About This Book” chapter (yes, that part of the book everyone skips). René Redzepi does a fantastic job outlining exactly that to expect, going into great detail about three important components:
1. FERMENTATIONS INCLUDED: René states from the very beginning…
“This book is a comprehensive tour of the ferments we employ at Noma, but it is by no means an encyclopaedic guide…”
The description on the front says “Including koji, kombucha, shoyus, miso, vinegars, garum, lacto-ferments and black fruit and vegetables”.
The term “including” wrongly suggests that there are additional fermentation methods in this book, which there are not. A more accurate (although less catchy) title would have been, “The Noma Guide to Seven Types of Fermentation (plus black fruit and veg)”.
You may be disappointed at this small figure, but don’t worry, what they lack in number, Noma makes up for in creativity and inspiration.
The first two chapters are beginner friendly (lacto-fermentation and kombucha), then there’s a steep nose dive into intermediate (vinegar) and advanced ferments (koji, miso, shoyu, garum). Koji is a huge topic that lays the foundation for the chapters on miso and shoyu (soy sauce), so if you’re interested in koji, you’ll love the majority of content.
2. CHAPTER LAYOUT: The eight chapters on fermentation follow a four-part format.
History and Scientific Mechanism: If you’re interested in where miso originated or the detailed chemistry involved in creating vinegars, the beginning of each chapter will satisfy your curiosity. This section ranges from a few paragraphs to a few pages, depending on the fermentation. I found the science of koji particularly interesting.
In-depth Base Recipe: The first recipe of every chapter walks you through the basics of each fermentation method. It is important to learn this base recipe, as it serves as foundational knowledge for every subsequent recipe in the chapter.
Variations: Noma is known for pushing the boundaries of standard ferments. In this section you’ll learn how to elevate the base recipe using different ingredients and slightly altered methods. Here’s a sneak peak of what you’ll discover…
- Lacto-fermention: Mushroom, tomato water, honey-scented honey. - Kombucha: Rose, coffee, maple, mango. - Vinegar: Celery, butternut squash, whisky, black garlic balsamic. - Koji: Sparkling citric amazake, koji flour, roasted koji “mole”. - Miso: Hazelnut, rose peaso, maizo. - Shoyu: Yellow pea, cep, coffee. - Garum: Shrimp, grasshopper, bee pollen. - Black Fruit and Vegetables: Apples, chestnuts, shallots.
Applications: Examples of how each fermentation can be used as a foundation of flavour in a meal or beverage. These short informal recipes don’t have an ingredients list, measurements or exact method because “specifics aren’t nearly as important as the possibilities”.
3. FERMENTATIONS EXCLUDED: There are four main fermentation topics absent from this book, and here’s why.
- Alcohol: Noma often ferments sugar into alcohol, but it’s not for drinking. It’s the first stage of their vinegar creating process. Instead of brewing in-house, they happily leave the work to brewers and winemakers, and “don’t pretend to be masters of their domain”. - Charcuterie: Noma is famous for its autumnal menu featuring incredible game dishes; however meat fermentation in this book is limited to a chapter on garum (fish sauce). Noma plans to explore fermented meats in the future, but haven’t put their money where their mouth is, as of yet. Thus, no charcuterie in this book. - Bread: Simply put, “bread could take up—and deserves—its own separate discussion”. - Dairy: While they leave the aged artisanal cheese to the experts, Noma does make their own yogurt, créme fresh, and fresh unfermented cheese. Perhaps, like bread, dairy deserves its own book.
If you’re wanting to learn any of these four fermentations methods, then you’ve got the wrong book. But that doesn’t mean this book is subpar. Noma simply gives these topics the respect they deserve by not including them.
HIGHLIGHTS:
Revolutionary Inspiration: Noma has built its reputation on prodigious menu’s that reinvent food as we know it. Therefore it’s no surprise that they would give you a taste of their creativity in this book. If you’re seeking an injection of inspiration, go straight to the application section of the chapters…read about the food, imagine the vibrant colours and intoxicating smells. Let it infuse your mind with curiosity and excitement. Only after you can nearly taste the dish, should you go back and learn the base recipe and its variations.
Detailed and Simple Methods: The Noma Guide to Fermentation really does prioritise guiding you through each recipe by providing both a detailed written method and a corresponding pictorial version with dot-point instructions. These two approaches give a well rounded understanding of each fermentation, as well as easy instructions to refer back to.
Authors Attitude: In the “About the Book” section, René acknowledges that readers may feel intimidated by certain ferments, and may not have access to specific ingredients. That’s okay. Even if you try to make something once (e.g. vinegar, miso, black fruit), then decide it’s too much effort, at least you’ve learn’t a little more about how it’s made and hopefully have a new found respect for the product. René hopes that you will be encouraged to buy the product instead, and be inspired to experiment with it in a variety of new ways.
CONSTRUCTIVE CRITISISM:
Not Enough Photos: Anyone interested in Nomas varied and elaborate menu may be disappointed to know that within the 455 pages of this book, there are less than 20 photos of Nomas exquisite dishes. Plenty of photographs of step-by-step recipe instructions, but they serve a functional instead of inspirational, purpose. With a multitude of variations and applications for each recipe; corresponding visual presentation would have given an extra dose of excitement and motivation.
Formatting and Book Size: A book this big may seem impressive, but its annoyingly heavy and could honestly have been condensed to half its current size. There’s a lot of wasted, blank space. The page numbers are pretentiously large and the recipes are only written on one half of the page (they definitely could have fit a second column). This contributes to the “stingy” feeling expressed in some reviews. The same quantity of content formatted into a smaller sized book would have underpromised and over delivered, which is much better than the other way round.
Target Audience: René expresses that his… “…main goal was to translate what we do in the restaurant to the home kitchen.” Although the ferments covered in this book can be achieved in a home kitchen, most of them are definitely not suited to beginner home fermenters; hence the book being viewed as “complicated and impractical”.
If you’re somewhat experienced in using bacteria, yeast and moulds to transform your foods, and want to up your game with these specific ferments, then you’ll froth this book. Unfortunately is you’re a fermenting newbie, you’ll probably become overwhelmed by some of the methods and required equipment (e.g. fermentation chamber).
WHO SHOULD READ THIS BOOK?
- Intermediate and adventurous beginner fermenters. - Readers interested in koji, kombucha, shoyus, miso, vinegars, garum, lacto-ferments and black fruit and vegetables. - Readers looking for creative inspiration and alternative ways to implement standard methods of fermentation.
CONCLUSION
As a beginner/intermediate fermenter, I really loved flicking through this book. A lot of it was way beyond my understanding, but I didn’t let that overwhelm me. Instead I used it as inspiration to push myself and try new methods.
If you use this book to experiment and further your skills, you will be a better fermenter for it. Enjoy!
While this was an interesting read (and I'm in awe of NOMA's food), I doubt I'll be venturing into making koji, miso, or garum at home. Most of this book was a bit above my current skill/interest and level of commitment, which sits at "many bottles of kefir, two successful batches of sauerkraut, and a spicy carrot/lime slaw."
The lacto-ferments chapter did remind me that I've been meaning to make kimchi (and conveniently I received a napa cabbage in my CSA box on Saturday). I now have two jars fermenting on my counter as I type.
I'm also feeling inspired by the kombucha chapter; if I can find a local source for a SCOBY I'll give that a try soon.
If you're interested in how fermentation is done by the experts, this is your book. If you are looking for recipes to try yourself, it's less useful. I've tried fermented pickles, wine and cider, vinegar, hot pepper sauce and several other things, so I'm a pretty adventurous. But I didn't find a single recipe that I thought might be interesting. This is the kind of interesting food you go out and pay Noma to cook for you.
Some cool ideas in here, but this is definitely a book aimed at the restaurant class and not home cooks. Which is understandable, but left me feeling that a lot of the ideas were impractical.
This book is crack for any chef or person genuinely passionate about creating art with food. Anyone who cares about food in general really. That being said heed this warning, It’s a dangerous book because you will never ever want anything other than fermented goodness, you will begin to collect jars and ferment containers filling them with experiments until they slowly take up all your time, finances and love. Loved ones may intervene. 10/10, would read again.
This is a must have book for anyone who ferments or would like to start fermenting. It covers all the right topics including the science, recipes and equipment. After being read it becomes a reference book and I have already filled it with colored sticky tabs.
Sandor Katz to NOMA - where fermentation is pushing to new frontiers and techniques and while the recipes might work but not find a place in your kitchen or cooking, it's a good read if you are fermenting. Got me going on KOJI!
My partner and I have already made a number of recipes from here, and it has really revolutionized our cooking. We are planning to try out the kombucha and the miso/peasos soon. Just have to build that fermentation chamber!
Love the ideas in this book, although many are intimidating, just looking at the equipment, time, effort involved.... But they might be fun for a science curriculum and homeschoolers just might find a handful of experiments here worth trying, especially if they like being able to eat the results. Maybe next schoolyear.
This is an amazing guide and one of those magical cookbooks that really expands your food world. It takes simple ingredients and gives very thorough step by step instructions for what to do. The pictures are beautiful, but it isn't all style over substance. It's just a great book that I will go back to and a great guide to some basics.
Big fan of the ideas and flavors presented within. Truly inspiring to see a kitchen family so dedicated to flavor and the pursuit of new ones that they’ve created space, methods and time for this exploration outside the retail aspirations of the storefront. A triptych of one group’s discovery of and reconnection to a powerful cooking tradition.
The holy grail of fermentation books. Approachable guides for the ferments tested and used at Noma. Less broad in scope than "The Art of Fermentation" by Sandor Katz, but detailed where it counts and extraordinarily beautiful in presentation.