Make, Sew and Mend: Traditional Techniques to Sustainably Maintain and Refashion Your Clothes

by Bernadette Banner

New York Times Bestseller

Learn the Historically Proven Stitches Every Seamster Needs with Beloved Historical Fashion YouTuber Bernadette Banner

Whether you are just getting started with sustainable fashion and need to alter your new secondhand finds, or you want an introduction to sewing techniques for making your own clothes, Bernadette Banner’s signature voice will guide you through all the traditional stitches and techniques you need to extend the life of your favorite pieces and take fashion into
your own hands!

From tips and tricks on choosing your materials and preparing your fabric for sewing to more complex techniques like mending small holes, adding pockets to garments, making your own buttons and beyond―this book has everything you need. Complete with step-by-step photos and insight into what alterations each sewing technique is best suited for, Bernadette walks you through every step of your sewing journey. For added inspiration, this book also includes profiles on exciting voices in the historic sewing community and their perspectives on how taking fashion into their own hands has changed their lives for the better. Make, Sew and Mend is the perfect foundation for beginner sewers to start making their fashion their own.

Genres: Nonfiction, Sewing, Fashion, Crafts, Reference, Art, How To

200 pages, Paperback

First published May 17, 2022

About the author

Bernadette Banner is a filmmaker and dress historian, best known for her YouTube channel documenting the exploration, reconstruction and interpretation of historical dress. Her work focuses on English and American dress predating the widespread use of the electric sewing machine, with a particular focus in the years of dress between 1890 - 1914; all reconstruction work is done by hand or with the use of period authentic machinery.

In addition to rediscovering the methods by which clothes were made in the past, the Bernadette Banner YouTube channel seeks to explore how we in the 21st century can learn from and adopt historical sewing techniques and attitudes towards dress in an effort to fight the effects of fast fashion and mass manufacture.

After some years working on costume design teams for Broadway, Bernadette graduated from New York University in 2017 and began collaborating with the team at the School of Historical Dress on reconstruction and publication projects. She currently works as a YouTube content creator and research consultant in London.

Reviews

[Marci · Rating 3 out of 5]

While this book is very well written and illustrated (it is a top-notch piece of technical writing), it could have used a better editor to get the author to focus her audience more exactly. The title leads the reader to suppose that this book will help a sewer not only to make clothes and to "sustainably maintain" them, but also to "refashion your clothes" which suggests more than just adjusting the hemline, adding gussets to the underarms, and adding pockets. I expected and would have very much appreciated a section on more alterations that "refashion" a garment.

Be aware that the author is a proponent of hand sewing everything, and if you want more information about making something using a machine, this may not be the book for you. You can certainly adapt this guide to using your machine, but that's not the audience most of this book is written to.

In an egregious departure from the target audience, the author goes into too much detail about fabric types and composition--even a whole spread on doing tests to determine fabric content, which is apparently only really important if you are dyeing the fabric (so it states on page 16) and yet dyeing fabric forms no part of the book. So why the burn and bleach tests that take up over 4 pages of a rather short and non-comprehensive book? Who really needs to perform those tests? Nobody, unless the fabric content directly affects the project, and I can find no project in this book that requires that much knowledge about the fabric.

There was also a lot of space on creating eyelets for a garment that looked like a corset, and then all the illustrations for lacing a corset-like garment showed metal grommets instead of the eyelets. Shouldn't the laced eyelets be shown in some recognizable garment where they made sense, such as a loose blouse or dress where they were more decorative than functional? In fact, why include so much detail for a corset, which is not something the majority of people today are wearing or would ever wear? The corset belongs in a book dedicated to making and/or preserving historical dress. Had the corset been left out, there would have been space for showing how to take the fashions that you might have in your closet and actually refashion them to make them stronger, not so ephemeral. Or there could have been a section on just how to make a pattern from a garment that one really likes but that is not made well or of lasting material, and how to create a lasting version of such a garment.

The mending section does a very good job of explaining darning and patching, but how about tears along seams? What about how to handle worn-out sections of a garment? Isn't that a big part of making something last, of sustainably maintaining clothing? Again, I would have liked a bit more about how to maintain clothing. (There was nothing about stains--hiding them can be a sewing project worth doing.)

So the title led me to believe that the book would contain more about refashioning and about maintaining clothing. Instead, the book was sort of an illustration of projects the author loves to do, and also that odd section on fabric content that shows a level of expert knowledge that in all practicality nobody but the expert needs.

However, if you are a fan of Bernadette Banner and her completely charming online videos, and if you feel you could work some Edwardian-inspired clothing into your permanent wardrobe, you will love this book. It is full of her unique voice and its strength is in her own style--she is a compelling woman whose personal presentation is very entertaining as well as informative. Just be aware that the information is rather limited to her unique interests.

[Sherri · Rating 3 out of 5]

Banner and her YouTube channel are known for hand sewing/stitching and period clothing wear. Her "make" does not include patterns for clothes. It's more of how to "make" small alterations such as pockets for clothes that don't have pockets whether on front or inseam, or to let out or take in. If you want a pattern book, keep looking.

What I liked:
burn test for fabric. When you get gifted or find those estate sale fabrics to tell what they might be.
Care of fabric and period clothing
Tools for hand sewing.
Use of contrasting thread for demonstration (most cases)
Darning
Names of different stitches.
How to photos (see below)
Written instructions
Consciousness of fixing what you have

What I thought was "meh":
Some cases did not use contrasting thread. Darning a sock with red on red thread? Visibility is hard.
Better close up photos of stitching or button holes. This is detailed work.
Stories of other makers. Why? I reading this to see how to make, sew, and mend.
More mending. If there's a emphasis on how to repair what we have, then more mending please. How about tucks in jeans/trousers. Jean/knit hemming. Ugh have you seen women wear dress pants that are so long their heels are walking on their hem?? Wear in the knees/thighs. How to patch with modern patches. I get she's a period sewer but we aren't wearing corsets these days or making a whole lot of eyelets.

All in all good but keep looking to round out your hand sewing and mending skills or enjoy her YouTube channel.

[Nikki · Rating 5 out of 5]

Simply written, beautifully illustrated, easy to follow, and comprehensive. An excellent starting place for new seamstresses. ((Gotta ask, though, Bernadette: why forgo the Oxford comma?))

[Kristyn · Rating 5 out of 5]

Out of all the tutorial books I’ve read - this is by far one of the most ascetically pleasing books that is also very well informative on the kinds of fabric weaves/types to basic hand stitching techniques. I read it all in one go but will surely refer to this as I learn to sew my own clothing and mend myself.

[Whitney · Rating 3 out of 5]

Yes, it's disconnected - it's a collection of basic knowledge that doesn't seem to follow a theme or have a clear point - but I'm rounding up to three stars.

(a) Her writing is charming, and the pictures are pretty. It's a pleasant flip-through book.

(b) Speaking as an experienced seamstress - I learned a couple of random skills from reading this.

(c) The guest essays about the personal effects of making one's own clothing were delightful.

Overall - glad I got to read it (library), but probably never going to buy a copy.

[Sarah Fowler Wolfe · Rating 5 out of 5]

All the little basics our moms didn't know how to teach us. Very useful if you're looking to extend your wardrobe and get out of the destructive and wasteful fast fashion loop. You won't even need a sewing machine!

It covers fabric, thread, and stitching before going over techniques for hemming, adding a sleeve gusset, or even POCKETS! How to sew on buttons, patch a hole, or darn a sock. Well worth the price to have a reference with simple, beautiful photographs illustrating every detail.

[Irene · Rating 5 out of 5]

As an absolute beginner to sewing, I’ve done repairs without knowing what I was doing and I’ve gotten some mediocre but good enough results both by hand and by machine. This book was exactly what I needed.

It focuses entirely on hand sewing techniques, it’s clear and detailed, and I learned a wealth of tips for doing things properly. I also felt quite dumb from time to time because for instance, even though backstitching the beginning of your sewing when using a machine is one of the first things you learn, it had never occurred to me to do the same when hand sewing. There were several more ‘duh’ moments for me.

I may finally dare add pockets to all my pocketless garments!

[Angie · Rating 3 out of 5]

I’m not sure what the intended audience is for this book, as it includes information for beginners but also includes more advanced techniques. What I personally found most helpful was the detailed information about various hand stitches, as I’ve lately contemplated doing a little more of my sewing by hand. However I requested it from the library in my attempt to find a useful book on mending, and despite “mend” being in the title that is a very small section of this book.

[Dymphy · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is excellent for the beginning sewer. This book covers the basics: what fabric to select, how to read a pattern, which stitches to use and even how to properly take care of your clothing.

I do miss a bit on fitting clothing and it would be nice to have some examples of clothing with the style essays.

[Emelie · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book has clear and easy-to-follow instructions on how to hand sew. This book is great to start with if you want to begin your sewing journey.

[LiLi · Rating 5 out of 5]

Phenomenal

Fascinating and educational. I learned so much! Considering buying a print copy to have on hand while sewing. Will be recommending this one to friends .

[Brittany · Rating 5 out of 5]

I've followed her YouTube channel for a few years now, and I just love her. Her book has lots of helpful sewing and mending techniques.

[Cassie Bateson · Rating 2 out of 5]

While it had some good helpful knowledge I, like other reviewers thought it missed the mark a little. For example she mentioned cartridge pleats but no explanation of how'd you actually sew that to a waistband or whatever. The width of cartridge pleats are much thicker than a standard pleat or gather so how would one attach that to a waistband with the extra bulk? There was no information on reading patterns (which I think is a basic sewing skill and would've been useful here) or any real world applications of mending. Like the best way to fix the fabric of your trousers that's wearing thin at the thighs would've been helpful but it's not in here. There's just little real world application or tips that the modern person would need. Other than knowing what the stitches I'm doing are called now I probably won't have much application for what I read.

[Deborah Green · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved seeing a close-up view of what I have seen in her YouTube videos. I am working on working on felling seams and then I want to try lace insertion. I have long enjoyed Ms. Banner's videos and have very much enjoyed her book.

[Jennifer Kubenka · Rating 5 out of 5]

Really visually lovely book, with hand-sewing basics very clearly explained.

[Sarah · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good for basic stitches and skills; was hoping for a bit more on historical tailoring or sources.

[Helena · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great book, glad I read this before starting to sew my own clothes. Some of the examples are very specific to historical clothing, but can be easily adapted to modern styles as well. The only odd parts were the "guest letters", which I expected to talk a bit about a certain type of sewing or techniques unique to the guest, but we're instead just about why they love fashion and sewing? Like good for you, go get em girl, but doesn't really belong in a handbook imo...

[Anniken Haga · Rating 4 out of 5]

I never know how to rate non-fiction books. On the writing style? On the information within? On how much it draws you in? Other than the first, these things are very personal, regarding your experience and interests.

What I can say about this book, is there for just from my own POV. I have very little experience with sewing, but I've always found it a relaxing thing to do - I embroider and cross stitch - and have been wanting to branch into sewing for a while now. Mainly to make a quilt, but now I also have some ideas as to how to modify some of the clothes I don't use often but deeply love.

So, as a newb, this book was informative. It covered a fair amount of the basics, and had pictures and good descriptions of the techniques mentioned. I liked the ''mend'' part of the book, where it covered some interesting ways to both modify and mend your clothing. Both to make them more personal and individual, but also to make them last longer.

The main thing I'm missing from this book, is the ''make'' part. This gave the idea that it would contain patterns and ways to make your own clothes, but other than the basics of how to care for fabrics and put them together to make something, there's nothing about making in this book. No patterns or things like that, which was a disappointment. Although I understand how including that in a book aimed at people with little sewing experience might seem overwhelming to them.

I generally enjoyed this book, and I especially liked the small ''essays'' at the end of each chapter from different people Bernadette knows. I liked the POVs regarding heritage, individuality and personal growth, and ableism within the fashion industry. All of which hit a different part of me on a personal level.

[Annika · Rating 5 out of 5]

Suurepärane raamat! Soovitan ka Bernadette'i YouTube'i kanalit ja õpetust Skillshare'is.

[Nina Young · Rating 5 out of 5]

read this and immediately made plans to make a georgian gown and an 1860s day dress i cannot be stopped thank you bernadette

[Alex Bright · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this entire thing in Bernadette’s voice! 😂

Very educational, both in the history of garments and in practical matters. Some of it I will definitely use and refer to in the future. I enjoyed the short guest articles, too!

[Keesa · Rating 4 out of 5]

Most of the information in this book is fairly basic (perfect if you need a basic instruction manual) but I did find some helpful details that I didn't know. It's probably easier to understand the different stitches if you've watched her YouTube channel; the pictures are lovely and clear, but there is no substitute for actually seeing the motions with your eyes.

[Faith · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is everything I was hoping for — a practical guide to sewing for anyone who owns clothes in the modern age. It’s not so much about every intricate technique you might need to know when pursuing sewing as an art form, but rather the basic techniques that are useful even to those of us who have no interest in sewing all of our clothes from scratch. It covers things like how to sew buttons and mend holes and add pockets and (my personal favorite) add underarm gussets to all those shirts that won’t let you move your arms properly. It’s about developing a sustainable relationship with the clothes you already have. It is also a celebration of hand sewing as a practical skill with low equipment needs, rather than as an arcane hobby. Sewing machines are nice, but certainly not necessary! You can do everything you need with just a needle, thread, and a thimble. Now pardon me while I go add underarm gussets to all my shirts…

[Bunbury · Rating 5 out of 5]

Absolutely lovely! The pictures are amazing and very useful, especially combined with the description. This gives a broad and simultaneously surprisingly deep overview of hand-sewing skills that is difficult to find in (modern) books. I love the focus on actually educating the reader on why certain things are important too.

Softcover vs kindle ebook: I have both the soft cover and the ebook version. I must say that the ebook will be great for quick references on my phone, but if it’s your main way you intend to read this book it’s likely best consumed on something like a full-sized iPad or a computer screen. The way the images link to the text really gets quite confusing reading on my small phone screen. This is not at all a problem with the physical book though and as I only intend to use the ebook as a companion to the physical book this does not trouble me in the slightest.

[Cynthia · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 stars. I really enjoy Bernadette Banner's videos, but I am a little disappointed in this book. Some of the technique pictures are too small. Also, I expected a hardcover book. I would have paid extra for a hardcover or spiral bound book.

I thought there would be more depth to the techniques, such as restyling ideas (beyond mending and adjusting fit) for thrifted or already owned clothes. Perhaps in a future book?

I really enjoyed the contributed essays and wish there were more of them.

There are a few techniques that I will refer to in the future, as I think her pictures and descriptions are clearer than those in other books I own, eyelets, for example.

There should be a picture of Cesario in the book. :-) ☺️

[Aurah Gqunefere Whitethorne · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’m in love. Bernadette has successfully provided me with an easy to access reference for all of the sewing techniques I’ve been wanting to learn. I’ve highlighted nearly every page, and have tabs all over this book already. Excited to go forth and make things!

I don’t rate a lot of books 5 stars: many get a solid 3 or 4. But the incredible attention to detail Bernadette has place this as a solid 5 star book for me. Stunning photography, excellent descriptions, graphs and visuals to go along with it. A glossary. A reference page. An index. I already know this book will be referenced countless times over the course of many years for myself and many others.

[Anna · Rating 3 out of 5]

While this is a top tier beginners manual on the most fundamental (hand)sewing and mending techniques, I still wished it went more in-depth with its topics. As it is now, I do not feel I learned a whole lot from this book, even though I have never received any formal sewing education. All in all, great resource for those who have just started their sewing journey but a redundant one if you are already familiar with the basics.

[Judy · Rating 5 out of 5]

While I will probably never do the amount of handwork Ms. Banner does, I appreciate the historical aspects, as well as the tips and hints for period sewing. I not only sew cosplay outfits for my daughters and granddaughter, I have also made Tudor-era clothing for my daughters for our local Ren Faire. Plus I love her YouTube videos. Great job with this book.

[Cassie Rossi · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book very clearly outlines many historical sewing techniques, and has beautiful photographs explaining how to do them step by step. I also love the descriptions/examples of how and when to use each technique. I tend to be a bit afraid of hand stitching, but no longer!

[Quizzle · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is a great start for getting into (hand)sewing, with a variety of useful subjects and the most beautiful and helpful pictures to explain everything step by step. This will definitely be a useful guide for all my sewing years to come!