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Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance
This is the completely revised and updated edition of Flash Training , the fundamental manual for physical and mental training for rock climbers. Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, the author has created a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury. A necessary book for rock climbers everywhere.
206 pages, Paperback
First published October 1, 1997
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 44 reviews
June 9, 2017
The Author has a strange obsession with milk.
December 9, 2017
Review on Training for climbing by Eric Hörst
Training for climbing is a classic book within the sports climbing books. The first edition was released 2003, and Hörst has also written other books on the topic of climbing.
What to expect from a book that covers the topic of climbing? One would expect to find a book that first gives the reader the inspiration, knowledge, and aspiration to train, climb and send routes.
The contents of the book are oriented around goal setting, training different aspects of the body, understanding of physiology, nutrition, but also a chapter on injury treatment and prevention.
I must say that the short chapter of sports climbing history is just about the right size regarding content before the author jumps into the essence and his foundation of the approach to climbing with one-third of physical activity, one-third of mental attributes and the last third of technical skills.
With this trinity of skills as the foundation or the essence of the climbing attributes one would expect to let this be the inhibition throughout the book. The physical aspect gets a good coverage and the physiological chapter and section are quite good, it has some new theories like the central governor (CGM) as a regulator of the stress threshold against depletion of ATP-CP. But the technical aspect is not covered, and the mental aspect has some brief exercises and guiding approaches.
There are lots of references as well to other researchers and studies accomplished within the science of sports climbing. This is good although the references are a bit vague in description.
Due to the relatively good chapter on physiology, the training and exercises are thus evidentially based. But there are some blind spots and the author point them out but sometimes he misses to mark them out. E.g. there is still a cross section between genetics and the trainable, which is a challenge scientist argue and dispute over, and it is a point the author is making the reader aware of. The author is not so clear and sometimes a little contrary as to be your own specialist up against to boost out some commandments that are not based on evidence. Some of them might be for safety reasons and some might be for the most pedagogic way of teaching, and these are of course elementary and solid arguments regarding the commandments functions.
The topic overall is very interesting, and it is clearly that the author takes the reader seriously, and wants to inspire and enlighten.
A little critical voice enhances in this reader when the author speaks about old ways of viewing the control center in the brain. The idea of the whole area of the brain who has to be engaged when one climb is indisputable, but it is not as schematic as the division of the right and the left side of the brain, where one side is controlling logic and emotions without connection in between. This is an old view though applicable to the left arm, and the right side of the brain but for more cognitive functions it is not so to speak, and the topic should be upgraded in a new version of the book. As this is a new version.
The book is also interactive and has a useful appendix, and interactive sections, so you can take upon the challenge of completing some self-tests to deepen your knowledge on what you currently and over the longer term, need to work on.
The climber who has completed several seasons are familiar with the concept of periodization. The concept that is introduced in train for climbing are the underlying micro-, meso- and macrocycles. This gives the reader more to be concerned about, and when he absolutely was sure of one way there are many simultaneously processes which happen during the development phase. This gives the reader a view of the nuances of development in climbing.
The book deepens the knowledge about training for climbing. Whether the book’s function just as a motivator could be questioned, like for example a climbing movie who serves the viewer with ultra-cool clips of boulders and routes with high profiled climbers. The author makes the reader very task oriented and not so much goal driven like a vivid imagination might do. It is a part of the syllabus and the mental training part. So one-third of the "trinity" is not left out but on the topic of mental training.
There is an approach to the physiological side of the body through different energy systems, that is explained thoroughly. And how to train the four-different energy system anaerobic power, anaerobic capacity, aerobic power and aerobic capacity. There is also put up scenarios where it could be questioned what type of energy system is active since the body is a whole and the isolated function of these systems might work a bit different while in synthesis.
There is also another cornerstone in the train for the climbing approach in this philosophy and it is to not try to train the acticlactic system too much, not solely focus on hard sustaining climbing. The argument is that working on the acticlactic threshold is a threshold that requires great patience. The author argues that it is the least trainable system. Whether this is true or not could certainly be a question of debate. The
difference between the theorem learned from evidence and the stated anecdote theorem
is a tricky one, in a book that is meant to be easily grasped and understood. It is also a point the author points out, that in your training you should not be guided by anecdotes It might as well be dependent upon how one threat climbing, is climbing mostly a skill exercise, an endurance sport, a power-oriented workout or gracefully choreography of tricks and solutions? These differences might be reflected upon in the reader's mind.
The chapter on nutrition and acceleration recovery are good, and its great to have a holistic view of the climbing and training since athletes might suffer from their own blind spots. In a sport that seems to depend greatly on the weight to body-mass ratio and with a clear warning of a severe risk of injury these two topics can`t get enough attention. The injuries in climbing from stress on the body can be avoided by warming up, working the antagonist's muscles, proper and sufficient rest and the right training-volume, load, and intensity. The injury section is very detailed and leaves the reader with the curiosity to explore the topic more.
The illustrations and pictures are good and there are lots of exercises to keep you going, some familiar and some new and some even a little controversy or new as being climbing related.
Great read and looking forward to the second read through as the author recommended.
Training for climbing is a classic book within the sports climbing books. The first edition was released 2003, and Hörst has also written other books on the topic of climbing.
What to expect from a book that covers the topic of climbing? One would expect to find a book that first gives the reader the inspiration, knowledge, and aspiration to train, climb and send routes.
The contents of the book are oriented around goal setting, training different aspects of the body, understanding of physiology, nutrition, but also a chapter on injury treatment and prevention.
I must say that the short chapter of sports climbing history is just about the right size regarding content before the author jumps into the essence and his foundation of the approach to climbing with one-third of physical activity, one-third of mental attributes and the last third of technical skills.
With this trinity of skills as the foundation or the essence of the climbing attributes one would expect to let this be the inhibition throughout the book. The physical aspect gets a good coverage and the physiological chapter and section are quite good, it has some new theories like the central governor (CGM) as a regulator of the stress threshold against depletion of ATP-CP. But the technical aspect is not covered, and the mental aspect has some brief exercises and guiding approaches.
There are lots of references as well to other researchers and studies accomplished within the science of sports climbing. This is good although the references are a bit vague in description.
Due to the relatively good chapter on physiology, the training and exercises are thus evidentially based. But there are some blind spots and the author point them out but sometimes he misses to mark them out. E.g. there is still a cross section between genetics and the trainable, which is a challenge scientist argue and dispute over, and it is a point the author is making the reader aware of. The author is not so clear and sometimes a little contrary as to be your own specialist up against to boost out some commandments that are not based on evidence. Some of them might be for safety reasons and some might be for the most pedagogic way of teaching, and these are of course elementary and solid arguments regarding the commandments functions.
The topic overall is very interesting, and it is clearly that the author takes the reader seriously, and wants to inspire and enlighten.
A little critical voice enhances in this reader when the author speaks about old ways of viewing the control center in the brain. The idea of the whole area of the brain who has to be engaged when one climb is indisputable, but it is not as schematic as the division of the right and the left side of the brain, where one side is controlling logic and emotions without connection in between. This is an old view though applicable to the left arm, and the right side of the brain but for more cognitive functions it is not so to speak, and the topic should be upgraded in a new version of the book. As this is a new version.
The book is also interactive and has a useful appendix, and interactive sections, so you can take upon the challenge of completing some self-tests to deepen your knowledge on what you currently and over the longer term, need to work on.
The climber who has completed several seasons are familiar with the concept of periodization. The concept that is introduced in train for climbing are the underlying micro-, meso- and macrocycles. This gives the reader more to be concerned about, and when he absolutely was sure of one way there are many simultaneously processes which happen during the development phase. This gives the reader a view of the nuances of development in climbing.
The book deepens the knowledge about training for climbing. Whether the book’s function just as a motivator could be questioned, like for example a climbing movie who serves the viewer with ultra-cool clips of boulders and routes with high profiled climbers. The author makes the reader very task oriented and not so much goal driven like a vivid imagination might do. It is a part of the syllabus and the mental training part. So one-third of the "trinity" is not left out but on the topic of mental training.
There is an approach to the physiological side of the body through different energy systems, that is explained thoroughly. And how to train the four-different energy system anaerobic power, anaerobic capacity, aerobic power and aerobic capacity. There is also put up scenarios where it could be questioned what type of energy system is active since the body is a whole and the isolated function of these systems might work a bit different while in synthesis.
There is also another cornerstone in the train for the climbing approach in this philosophy and it is to not try to train the acticlactic system too much, not solely focus on hard sustaining climbing. The argument is that working on the acticlactic threshold is a threshold that requires great patience. The author argues that it is the least trainable system. Whether this is true or not could certainly be a question of debate. The
difference between the theorem learned from evidence and the stated anecdote theorem
is a tricky one, in a book that is meant to be easily grasped and understood. It is also a point the author points out, that in your training you should not be guided by anecdotes It might as well be dependent upon how one threat climbing, is climbing mostly a skill exercise, an endurance sport, a power-oriented workout or gracefully choreography of tricks and solutions? These differences might be reflected upon in the reader's mind.
The chapter on nutrition and acceleration recovery are good, and its great to have a holistic view of the climbing and training since athletes might suffer from their own blind spots. In a sport that seems to depend greatly on the weight to body-mass ratio and with a clear warning of a severe risk of injury these two topics can`t get enough attention. The injuries in climbing from stress on the body can be avoided by warming up, working the antagonist's muscles, proper and sufficient rest and the right training-volume, load, and intensity. The injury section is very detailed and leaves the reader with the curiosity to explore the topic more.
The illustrations and pictures are good and there are lots of exercises to keep you going, some familiar and some new and some even a little controversy or new as being climbing related.
Great read and looking forward to the second read through as the author recommended.
August 17, 2023
It’s a great book especially for beginners climbers.but in each level you can find a good information and new lesson from this book.
November 15, 2020
The useful takeaways for me from this book were goal setting with specifics to climbing, injury prevention, and recovery. The rest of the material seemed similar to the other climbing self-help books.
I do think that Horst's podcast has some hidden gems especially with regards to energy systems and exercises to improve their capacities.
I do think that Horst's podcast has some hidden gems especially with regards to energy systems and exercises to improve their capacities.
January 4, 2023
Una Bibbia molto utile per chi è appassionato di questo sport e vuole approfondire lo studio dell'allenamento. Libro molto completo, con parti relative alla nutrizione, allo stretching, agli infortuni e molte altre sezioni. Gli esercizi proposti sono diversi, forse su altri libri ce ne sono anche di più, ma principalmente Horst vuole render capace un atleta di costruirsi da sè il proprio piano di allenamento. Se invece volete una serie di programmi di allenamenti già pronti forse testi come Jollypower sono più adeguati.
August 13, 2016
This is by far the most helpful training book I have read for improving climbing performance and avoiding injury. I really like his "less is more if you plan it well" approach. He also focuses on technique first because strength, power, and endurance will only get you so far. The only drawback is that the narrative style makes the book a bit unwieldy as a reference in the gym. A take-out quick reference guide would be a nice addition. As it is, it's a good idea to take notes, plan, and practice your workouts ahead of time on good old fashioned paper.
August 5, 2020
Real rating 4.5 stars
If you are an avid climber you must own this book. The main reason why it is so important is because it is actually science backed. It is pretty complete. However it does not discuss technique (read rock climbing technique bij Kettle) and little mental (read the roch warriors way).
I would have given it stars if Horst would have discussed back and neck issues. Also his advice on nutrition is outdated, since he recommends skim milk as a protein source (kid u not!) and he does not give advice for vegans (which I am not btw) and so forth.
If you are an avid climber you must own this book. The main reason why it is so important is because it is actually science backed. It is pretty complete. However it does not discuss technique (read rock climbing technique bij Kettle) and little mental (read the roch warriors way).
I would have given it stars if Horst would have discussed back and neck issues. Also his advice on nutrition is outdated, since he recommends skim milk as a protein source (kid u not!) and he does not give advice for vegans (which I am not btw) and so forth.
February 5, 2018
Good all encompassing information. What I lack is a bit clearer training schedules/programs. I find that for the novice, it might be to overwhelming to add all information to a routine, while for the experienced climber it might be a bit to broad.
I hope that in future editions there will be "sample programs". In the like of "start out with this, then add this, then this for x weeks. Notice what was hard then revise accordingly etc"
I hope that in future editions there will be "sample programs". In the like of "start out with this, then add this, then this for x weeks. Notice what was hard then revise accordingly etc"
September 13, 2020
This is definitely one of the most comprehensive books about climbing training. It embraces every single aspect of this sport: power, endurance, mental readiness, food etc. However, there is one problem – it seems like some of the ideas were valid 20 years ago but they are not so popular at the moment (scientificly). So I strongly recommend to check some facts (especially about food and digestive proccesses) while reading.
October 28, 2023
Very detailed and informative book on everything that a dedicated climber should learn. It covers the various training techniques and strategies, as well as helpful nutritional info and injury prevention/care. I felt it was a bit too scientific for a beginner climber, but overall provided the foundation for improving one’s climbing in a safe and effective way. It will definitely be a great resource to reference as I continue my climbing journey!
March 11, 2020
I am not a climber.
It's not my main activity.
However, I love the breakdown of this book. The structure is great- a bit of history, physiology, how to structure your workout, specific exercises for parts of the body, nutrition, recovery, injuries.
Great organization and I highly recommend it to anyone- there's much more in here that can be applied to more than just climbing.
It's not my main activity.
However, I love the breakdown of this book. The structure is great- a bit of history, physiology, how to structure your workout, specific exercises for parts of the body, nutrition, recovery, injuries.
Great organization and I highly recommend it to anyone- there's much more in here that can be applied to more than just climbing.
May 22, 2018
Very good straight forward book. Covers all aspects of training to climb in a way you can develop a personal plan for yourself. You could read this book and develop a plan for yourself in any sport and built on top of that is climbing specific information backed with sport science studies.
July 19, 2023
At times repetitive, but surely the most comprehensive guide to climbing-specific training out there. Highly recommend for climbers interested in topics ranging from injury prevention to high level power training.
August 8, 2017
The book is very helpful. I especially love how all the basic techniques are explained with so much insights. Love it!
April 2, 2018
I skimmed it.
December 13, 2018
Leida la version de 2018. Un libro que junta muchos conceptos utiles para mejorar en tus entrenamientos de escalada.
January 18, 2019
Great for sport climbing. But with a little studying its useful to help put together a trad training plan.
June 3, 2019
So much sense, periodization is a thing, actually proved the methodology in myself and it really boost my climbing...
August 17, 2020
Great book for beginners getting into climbing and for people of any level trying to find that edge on how to improve
March 13, 2021
From 7b to 8b :))
November 24, 2021
Amazing help. This book is gold for anyone who starts climbing. It puts things in perspective.
May 24, 2023
Read for the second time. Scanned through to focus on areas with info relevant to my needs. There's a good self-assessment along with suggested actions based on results.
March 13, 2017
This book does a good job in helping you train and prepare your body for rock climbing. I liked the practical information presented in such a straightforward way. There is not much more to say. If you want a book to help condition your body look no further.
April 9, 2020
Why I picked up and read this book / Climbing ability/interest level:
I gave indoor bouldering a solid, true effort for about 6 months last year. Rock climbing doesn't really coincide with my body type, weight, and injuries prevent me from really deep diving into this sport. I'm 250 lbs, with a shoulder, back and foot injury. I really tried to get into this, but I have to accept the cards dealt to me and not try to force something that just isn't going to work. The best climb I was able to top out on after 6 months of best effort, was a v5.
Thoughts on the Book:
I really did like it. The author did a great job focusing on all aspects of climbing from stretching, diet, training programs, and even mental state of mind when preparing to go "chalk up." I would also like to highlight the hang board routines and even the "weekend climbers" ... who only get to climb once a week, in which the author even provides gym routines to support climbing aspirations.
If I was more passionate about climbing and this was a hobby a poured my heart and soul into, I would probably give this book 4 stars.
To all you crazy climbers out there, who spend hours upon hours every week, or trips into the mountains for days at a time... don't forget your significant others, pets, friends, other aspirations in life. I cannot understand the dopamine connection and the addiction that climbing brings, but I most certainly know it exists. Just like anything in life, you have to strive to achieve balance.
I gave indoor bouldering a solid, true effort for about 6 months last year. Rock climbing doesn't really coincide with my body type, weight, and injuries prevent me from really deep diving into this sport. I'm 250 lbs, with a shoulder, back and foot injury. I really tried to get into this, but I have to accept the cards dealt to me and not try to force something that just isn't going to work. The best climb I was able to top out on after 6 months of best effort, was a v5.
Thoughts on the Book:
I really did like it. The author did a great job focusing on all aspects of climbing from stretching, diet, training programs, and even mental state of mind when preparing to go "chalk up." I would also like to highlight the hang board routines and even the "weekend climbers" ... who only get to climb once a week, in which the author even provides gym routines to support climbing aspirations.
If I was more passionate about climbing and this was a hobby a poured my heart and soul into, I would probably give this book 4 stars.
To all you crazy climbers out there, who spend hours upon hours every week, or trips into the mountains for days at a time... don't forget your significant others, pets, friends, other aspirations in life. I cannot understand the dopamine connection and the addiction that climbing brings, but I most certainly know it exists. Just like anything in life, you have to strive to achieve balance.
November 19, 2009
Climbing is a sport that relies on balance and intelligence as much as strength. The mental state of a climber will often make or break an ascent more dramatically than the ability to do one arm pullups.
Horst's book fills about a third of its pages describing visualization exercises that seem to come from Autogenetic therapy, Scientology, and other Mysticism. This is not to be considered a bad thing as these techniques actually do work.
If you find yourself suddenly drawn to the Secret, you have gone too far.
Following Horst's technique advice has lead to some pretty steep gains at the gym recently; that alone makes the book worth the price.
Horst's book fills about a third of its pages describing visualization exercises that seem to come from Autogenetic therapy, Scientology, and other Mysticism. This is not to be considered a bad thing as these techniques actually do work.
If you find yourself suddenly drawn to the Secret, you have gone too far.
Following Horst's technique advice has lead to some pretty steep gains at the gym recently; that alone makes the book worth the price.
Read
October 26, 201412/21/13: I actually started reading this in earnest today (had just been browsing exercises in it up to this point) because I'm gonna be competing in the Gay Games next summer! Woot! And while I would've guessed that my main climbing issue right now is lack of physical strength, I did the self-assessment in chapter two and turns out that my biggest problems are lack of technical skills and lack of mental focus/fortitude (i.e., I'm still scared as shit to make big moves). Oops! Definitely got work to do before Cleveland!
http://www.gg9cle.com/participate/spo...
http://www.gg9cle.com/participate/spo...
November 18, 2021
I can tell a lot of work went into this book. There is an unreal amount of training plans, workouts, technique tips, injury Managment, and much more in this book. When I was seriously climbing for about three years I referenced this book almost daily. The only downside was it made climbing seem formulated, do this grade this many times then you should expect this result. Which helped me a lot at first but I think this book is missing the art and feel of climbing. If I were to climb again I would incorporate an organic and feel based approach to climbing. This book 100 percent did its job in helping me but it also limited how I viewed the sport.
January 3, 2015
Absolutely essential for the climber who is focused on performance. Horst provides an excellent background on mental training, moving to exercise physiology and sport specific training, before diving into nutrition and recovery. Well organized and well written.
Edit: I just read the second edition of this book. Although there is some additional information, it is pretty much the same. There is some more focus on technique, but if you're interested in that, check out Self-Coached Climber.
Edit: I just read the second edition of this book. Although there is some additional information, it is pretty much the same. There is some more focus on technique, but if you're interested in that, check out Self-Coached Climber.
Read
December 13, 2014An excellent and thorough overview of training for climbing. This book would be useful for anyone looking to improve their climbing ability. The primary takeaway for me is that at my current climbing grade I need to be focused on climbing mileage and working on specific technique exercises and less focused on climbing-specific strength training. I'm already into my first 4-3-2-1 cycle and I am optimistic it will help me move beyond my current plateau and on to harder grades.
September 2, 2012
Excellent climbing book, covering every aspect relevant to athlete; mental, physical, technical, nutritional and recovering. Eric J. Horst blends his knowledge and experience on climbing in a unique, personal way that make Eric your perfect climbing mentor. I absolutely suggest this book and I'm looking forward to reading more if his climbing series books.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 44 reviews