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What Members Thought
This was a beautifully written book. It was expertly put together for someone who is interested in,but knows nearly nothing, about surfing.
There are many technical details that went way over my head, specifics and terms about waves and beaches and board and wind. I could still read and enjoy the book without the encyclopedic knowledge the author and I'm sure many readers of the book have. When I would just about be sick of the details that I was kind of lost in though, I realized the author had ...more
There are many technical details that went way over my head, specifics and terms about waves and beaches and board and wind. I could still read and enjoy the book without the encyclopedic knowledge the author and I'm sure many readers of the book have. When I would just about be sick of the details that I was kind of lost in though, I realized the author had ...more
An enjoyable, well-written memoir about surfing, surf locations the author visited, his observations about those locations, and his feelings about family, maturity, and growing older. I enjoyed it very much, but think someone with more knowledge of surfing would enjoy it more.
Dec 17, 2015
Margie
marked it as to-read
Jun 05, 2016
Amanda
marked it as started-need-to-finish
Aug 18, 2016
Ri
marked it as to-read_fiction-narratives
Mar 13, 2017
Ceci
marked it as to-read
Mar 19, 2017
Prin
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May 13, 2018
Kim Baxter
marked it as to-read
Aug 04, 2018
Diane
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Aug 22, 2018
David
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Sep 29, 2018
Martha Foster
marked it as to-read
Nov 25, 2018
Cindy III
marked it as to-read
Dec 19, 2018
David
marked it as to-read
Aug 02, 2019
Erin Byers
marked it as to-read
Dec 02, 2019
Debbie
marked it as to-read
May 28, 2024
Debbie
marked it as to-read
