Our plans for the day were delayed when I woke up feeling like crap. I slept in an extra two hours and then went to the hotel's bar to get a glass of milk to take with my ibuprofen. For a thrifty 80 (euro) cents, they gave me milk with a cream content so high, I suspect they had a cow out back. Nonetheless, it did the trick, but the delay meant we had to cut visiting Waterford--home of Waterford crystal--and head straight to Kilkenny, our other planned stop today.

Kilkenny is a beautiful little c