I’ve come back to Europe every spring since the 1970s — and I love that here we are, in 2019, and the magic still survives.

Join me now for a thoughtful walk through Vernazza after dinner, when it’s quiet and empty. This is the busiest time of year in the Cinque Terre, but after hours it’s all mine. (Many travelers, ironically trying to avoid the crowds, “side-trip” to the Cinque Terre for the day, before heading back to Florence or their cruise ships at dinnertime. To really enjoy this place...