Catherine Berry
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Born
in Adelaide, Australia
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March 2016
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Jennie Mayle
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But of course, he said, it is well known that the English kill their lamb twice; once when they slaughter it, and once when they cook it.
Sadly, although the general opinion of English cooking has improved a great deal, we shall always be known for overcooked lamb. In the same vein, I remember well going to The Côlombe D’Or which, to those who know it, must be one of their favourite restaurants as, indeed, it was ours. A very dear English friend who did not speak French ordered a steak adding that he wanted it ‘well done’. The thin-faced, bushy-eyebrowed, seen-everything waiter in his proper attire, white shirt, black waistcoat and apron, lent forward very slightly and said ‘à la Michelin, Monsieur’.
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Jennie Mayle
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The Troisgros has three Michelin stars and a 19½ out of 20 rating in the Gault-Millau Guide. And so it went on, as he adjusted his knee pads and scrubbed away at the floor, a personal guide to five or six of the most expensive restaurants in France that Monsieur Bagnols had visited on his annual treats.
Unfortunately we went to the Trois Gros only once but that was enough to lodge it in our culinary memories forever. It was our last stop going home to Devon after our honeymoon, by which time we were starting to count the francs. This was to be our last blow-out and so it was. I still have the image in my mind of a sweating silver pitcher full of cold red wine, a Beaune I believe, which tasted like Heaven, accompanying a many-course but light meal. Simply divine.
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Jennie Mayle
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The language spoken was French, but it was not the French we had studied in textbooks and heard on cassettes; it was a rich, soupy patois, emanating from somewhere at the back of the throat and passing through a scrambling process in the nasal passages before coming out as speech.
I always smile when I remember our problems with the language. When buying our first car in France, a 2CV, we were initiated in the rigours of the French bureaucracy and returned home tail between our legs because we didn’t have the correct paperwork - could it have been our parents’ birth certificates? It was wild anyway. Finally an introduction to the car and another first encounter ‘the frange oh man’- the hand-brake of course. One early encounter with Faustin I remember all too well. I went to see him in the vines where he was working with his tractor and having passed the time
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