Andrea Pflaumer's Blog, page 11

We’re going to look at the four seasonal color archetypes, or Color Harmonies, by starting with the boldest and most “yang” on the yin-yang continuum – winter or Striking Contrast. That phrase, Striking Contrast, says it all. Unless you have a fair amount of contrast in your own coloring, these bold winter colors will just drown you out. And if you have a lot of it, you will simply shine – and look natural doing it.

We’ll start with the stunning Amal Clooney. Amal has the typical features of a SC type: long oval face, translucent skin. Those elements, as much as the color of her hair, skin and eyes put her squarely into the SC category. Although she often wears elegant neutrals for work and on the red carpet, she clearly can wear heavily saturated reds and greens.

Because they typically have dark hair, many Strong Contrast types start coloring their hair as they age and it turns white. That can confuse the eye. Jane Seymour is a good example of this. The photo on the left shows how she looked in her Bond girl days and you can clearly see her oval face and the greater contrast in her coloring. Today, her luminescent skin is still the giveaway, even though she has gone warm blonde-ish. That color change frankly makes it a little more difficult for her to wear winter colors, so I find she tends to go for neutrals and for sparkle on the red carpet.

Lastly, here is the lovely Kerry Washington: same luminosity of skin, same oval face and dark eyes/dark hair. Now, as she also has some of the autumn (or Earthy Rich) color harmony, the ruby dress (on the right) works maybe better than a bright orange-y red. And when you see the pale turquoise dress you might think, “That’s not a bright or saturated color!” One of benefits of being a winter type is that your pale colors can go icy pale, as in this dress. On someone with a lot warmer coloring the dress would pop too much.

So, how much Striking Contrast do you have in your color palette? (I have zero, nada, zip.) You can test it out by placing your hand against the color palettes in my book and you will start to get a general idea. If you want a complete color palette done I highly recommend John Kitchener at Personal Style Counselors. (See our video interview below.) John will be traveling this year – to Utah through September, and then on to his new digs in Atlanta!!! But West Coast people, never fear…I can say no more right now 

Downton Abbey

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to shop for and dress television and film stars? Well today you’re going to find out.

My video guest is Hollywood costumer Terra Brody. Terra has worked as a designer’s assistant on a number of pilots, sitcoms and films including: Shameless, Animal Kingdom, American Horror Story, Charlie’s Angels,  Kirstie, and the upcoming TV series Almost Famous with Bella Thorne. She is currently the shopping assistant for Ray Romano’s new series, Get Shorty, based on the feature film.

Reece Witherspoon pretty in pink for Legally Blonde

Terra understands very well that we are judged instantly by our “costume” that what we wear communicates a great deal about what kind of person we are. “When you see someone in soft warm colors, in knits that are very flowy and without shape you think, that’s someone who is very relaxed, no high anxiety or tension. If you see someone wearing all black with very sharp edges you immediately think, OK – this person is very powerful – not to be messed with.”

American Horror Story costume

Sometimes she has very little screen time to convey who, exactly, a character is. For last season’s finale of Shameless she had only ten seconds to demonstrate that a woman was extremely wealthy and the camera shot was only from the shoulders up. How did she do that? “With diamonds…big ones,” she says.

I was already living pretty vicariously through her stories about her work. And then I learned that travel is one of the perks of her job! “International airports are great places for studying people. I can see someone and think, Oh! that’s good for the next time we get a Turkish look. You can draw inspiration from everywhere.” Maybe the reason she got hired was that she speaks five languages fluently (English, French, Spanish, Italian and German) and can communicate in three more (Portuguese, Japanese and Hebrew.) “I learned Italian and French in college specifically so I could communicate with the French and Italian couture design houses,” she says.

And guess what!? She’s invited me to do a studio tour with her next time I’m in LA! Wheee! Stay tuned…(and btw – Shopping for the Real You is now 20% off on Amazon.)

Enjoy my interview with the delightful Terra Brody: https://youtu.be/5dle-sGu8NE

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Gone are the days of the elegant hat for everyday wear: the velvet cloche, the feathered chapeau, the ribboned bonnet, the “fascinator.” (Look it up.)  Unless you’re dressing for the Ascot races, you’ve no doubt noticed that the minimalist direction of fashion has invaded the millinery world. But this doesn’t mean that a hat can’t be part of a fashionable look. In fact, it is a signature for certain style archetypes and often is the anchoring piece for a whole outfit. So how does one determine the best hat to wear?

Well, a lot of the same things we look for in clothing also determine the most flattering style of hat for us:  personal style, height, bone structure. Generally, hats are pretty costume-y. That means that Dramatic and High Spirited Types who can do “costumes” can get away with a lot more hat varieties than other style archetypes, such as Classics, who wouldn’t be caught dead in a costume, and Romantics, who usually like to show off their hair (unless they’re wearing a floppy brimmed style that seductively covers one eye.)

Speaking of which, hair is often the reason we reject any number of styles that might otherwise look great. This is particularly true for those of us with curly hair (and the reason I rarely wear them.) The reality is that most hats look best on flat hair or curly/wavy hair that is partially pulled back slightly away from the face.

Who can Wear What Hat?

Some stylists say that oval-shaped faces can wear any hat. I believe it depends upon your features, size and personal style. You don’t want to put a large, floppy, wide-brimmed hat on a small person.  All you will see is the hat. The taller you are, the more you can get away with a wider brim.

Personally, I think there aren’t a lot of don’ts for who can wear what hat. What matters more is the size and shape of the brim and crown (if there is one) and where the hat is worn on the head. The only exception is for a very long, oval-shaped face which looks more balanced with a medium-wide straight or floppy brim and a fitted crown or an angled beret. Most head/face shapes can wear some form of beanie or beret. A square or round face can handle one with a little more texture and volume. A round face can wear  better something more close-fitting. Someone with a heart shaped, diamond, or oval face can wear fitted cap or one with additional fabric and texture.

Newsboy caps require a broader face, particularly if the cap is flat on top, as with Drew Barrymore’s here. Longer, thinner faces look squashed in a flat cap, unless the crown is a fuller like this one on Kate Middleton.

The Fedora and the Panama hat have had quite a revival the past few years in fashion.The sharp brim of Reece Witherspoon’s short-brimmed Panama here gives a nice counterpoint to her pointed chin and her heart-shaped face. Then there are three women wearing essentially the same Fedora, all with different styles and faces. Jennifer Jennifer Aniston’s would work, but the brim is competing with the top of her glasses. The shorter brim and higher crown on Cameron Diaz’ balances her broad face. And Ann Hathaway’s more Dramatic style caries off a higher crown and tilted brim.

Bowlers are pretty tricky for anyone who isn’t little and doesn’t have a lot of the High Spirited style qualities. Taylor Swift rarely does anything wrong sartorially but imho this little one is a tad small for her head.

Cowboy hats usually require a broader head; the turned up sides will  elongate a face. Anne Hathaway’s rock festival-like floppy straw version is a good compromise for someone who wants the style but not the harder silhouette. And speaking of straw – just about anyone can wear a straw hat, even though it is an element of the Youthful archetype (the fact that the weave is essentially open and loose reads as Youthful.) Almost every type of hat, from floppy sun hats, to fedoras, cloches, bowlers, etc, are available in straw.

And almost everyone has at least one baseball cap in their closet. (Well, maybe not the Queen…) Pay attention to the shape and the width of the brim. A curved brim is more flattering on almost any face than a flat one, particularly for someone with a longer or narrow face. If you have any kind of a poufy hairdo it might stick out from the sides, making you look a little bozo-like.Pull your hair back a bit.

If you’re game, send me a photo of your favorite hat. I’d love to see how you wear it! And to learn more about your personal style archetypes, chapter 3 of my book has a detailed questionnaire that  can help you determine that.

Hat’s off to the Real You!

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I recently saw this quote from designer Carolina Herrera:

“Glamour is beyond beauty and beyond age. It’s like sex appeal – you either have it or you don’t, but I don’t think it’s the end of the world if you don’t have it!”

(That last part is  somewhat comforting to those of us who don’t register high on the glamour scale.)

In terms of personal style archetypes, a person with a lot of glamour has to have a good amount of both the Romantic and Dramatic style facets. (Which is why drag queens love glamour – it’s got the arch-ness of drama and the lushness of romance, making it a natural for dressing up!) But truly glamorous women also have some Classical style, as glamour often has classical clean lines. Unfortunately, except on the red carpet, glamour has become less fashionable on the runways.  It’s had to make room for room for edgier style reflecting the hard realities of the street. But even for those of us with personalities and lifestyles that aren’t glamorous we like to imagine that it  still exists somewhere. That’s why we watch the red carpet commentary for the Oscars.

Let’s look at some of the West’s glamorous icons from the past and compare them with those of the present. First up is Carole Lombard, to the right. Ms. Lombard made the slinky charmeuse dress a signature of what it means to be glamorous. The dress is a very typical romantic style as it creates the look of an hourglass figure (even though Carol was not terribly curvaceous.) The drama also comes in with exaggeration: the draped sash and mermaid bottom.

Kate Hepburn is an interesting example because her wavy hair says Romantic and her eyes bring in a lot of Drama. In color and style though, she was primarily Natural in personal style and Earthy Rich in coloring, neither of which naturally lend themselves to glamour. (This gives a lot of us hope!) Lauren Bacall here on the right is wearing a dress that scream “romantic”: it emphasizes her body, partially reveals it, and has large roses, a traditionally romantic pattern. But the tilt of her head and those eyes bring dramatic mystery to the whole look.

Where do we find glamour these days? A lot of the starlets and celebrities of today have more youthful features than Dramatic, as witnessed on the left here by Amy Adams and Reese Witherspoon. But if you add sparkle, wavy hair, and body conscious styling and fabrics, you end up with a glamorous look. That also goes for Zhang-Yuqi. Cleavage is the focus, but her features are very Romantic and Youthful. Priyanka Chopra, with her dark hair and sultry look, brings in more of the dramatic quality here that is a natural part of glamour.

But if you want to find true contemporary glamour, look no further than Rihanna. Style icon, personality, red carpet diva, Rihanna is the epitome of what glamour looks like today.

But that doesn’t mean that we can’t all bring a little glamour into our lives. We do it by carrying ourselves as if we matter, by wearing our best, most elegant lines, even for casual events, and by knowing that we’re fabulous, exactly as we are. After all, that’s what Carolina Herrera was talking about.

So, how do you “do” glamour? And for what occasion? Write me and let me know: [email protected]

 

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The beach, the sunshine, the pina coladas …it’s all so alluring. We can almost forget we have a pile of laundry awaiting us once we get home. That’s often the reason we feel compelled to go shopping when we’re in a favorite vacation spot: all the trinkets and mementos transport us back to the “land of no responsibilities.”

A vacation shopping adventure can be one of the most fun events on any holiday. It’s one of my favorite things to do, frankly. But it’s always a good plan to be at least slightly practical when shopping for clothes away from home base. I know that sounds boring, but it can save you some money and what you end up with will still connect you back to that oasis just as well.

Case in point: my husband and I headed to Hawaii (our first trip there) for his 70th birthday. Our hostess (how lucky are we to have friends with a house there!?) suggested she and I check out the local boutiques. Now, Hawaii is still mostly warm in February, but on the north shore of Kauai the wind doth blow like crazy, it rains almost every day, and there aren’t a lot of sheltered swimming holes.

Dress from Garnet Hill

So happily I forsook the sandblast by the beach as we piled into her car to check out the local shopping “mall.” Her favorite boutique was a tiny little shop chock-full of breezy, flow-y tops, jersey pants, bikinis, and skimpy but super comfy underwear. But I took a breath and made sure to remain grounded in reality. Everything I pulled off the rack had to work for my coloring and style type. Then I did a quick review of my own rules from the ‘Shop for your Lifestyle’ chapter in my book: How often would I wear something I buy here? Will it end up sitting in my closet taking up space or will I enjoy and use it for a long time? Does it serve a multiple purposes, not just here, but for future events or circumstances when I get home?

Summertime in Berkeley

Since I live in a climate that is often foggy and cold in the summer (Berkeley) I’ve had to train myself to mostly avoid all those lovely summertime frocks in the catalogs. It’s not that we don’t get hot days, but they usually come toward the end of summer and the warm season is painfully brief. So, clothes shopping in a wonderfully hot climate always comes with a big caveat for me.

What I did on My Vacation…

Bralette from Anemone

So what did I buy? Well, fortunately there was a wonderful long jersey skirt in one of my burnt orange colors that miraculously fit perfectly and had the right casual but hip quality that worked for me both lounging at home and on the island. And I found a strapless “one-size-fits someone” bralette (with thin removable modesty pads) from a company called Anemone in multiple ice cream colors for those days you don’t want straps digging into your shoulders.

And then, something caught my eye: a brown leather bomber jacket. Yes – a leather jacket in Hawaii. I found the size small, tried it on and it fit absolutely perfectly. For a petite shortie like me, that was a minor miracle. And as everything in the store was on sale for 25% off that day (and, as it turned out, the jacket it was faux leather – my shopping guru John Kitchener still can’t believe it’s faux) it came to $41.00 after tax. How many people come to Hawaii and buy a leather jacket? Apparently many – both locals and tourists, as the proprietress explained. With their thinner blood, every time the temperature dips below 70 the locals run for jackets and sweaters.

Since I’ve come home I’ve probably worn that jacket close to 100 times. Because like everyone else, I like to have something to remind me of the vacation, I have that terrific, very pack-able jersey skirt too. But on that trip, at least, I think Ma Nature rewarded me for my practicality by providing me with something completely unexpected and that likely will go with me to my grave.

So, what are good reasons to buy something at a resort or vacation spot?

It reminds you of one of the best times in your life.
It’s a thing of beauty in and of itself.
You love the handiwork of the locals (assuming it’s not just something imported from China.)
It’s in your colors.
It’s in your style.
It’s very flattering on your body.
You’ve enjoyed the local cuisine so much that you can no longer fit into the clothes you brought with you.

If it’s an inexpensive piece go for it. If more pricey it deserves a little more scrutiny. If it’s a classic, wear it every year and enjoy it!

Here’s to the relaxed, rested and smart-shopper real you!

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So, you’ve taken the lengthy questionnaire in my book (I hope!) and you finally have a clearer sense of your unique personal style. Now – how do you transform your wardrobe to more perfectly reflect who you are? Well, there are many wonderful stylists out there who can help you. But if you don’t have a fashion maven locally and you’re one of those who can’t stand public dressing rooms or are just sick of going to the mall, you’re not alone…and you’re in luck.

There is an entire new industry of curated fashion delivered right to your door. Here’s how it works. You go to one of these websites, fill out a profile indicating your style, price point and sizes preferences and they will send you a box of items to try on. You determine the frequency of deliveries: monthly, quarterly, or just when you request. Send back what you don’t like, and you only are charged for what you keep. Several have free shipping both ways. It’s like ordering online, but you don’t have to do the hunting.

Full disclosure: I haven’t tried any of these services myself. (I’m too much of a control freak to have someone else pick out my clothes.) But, they do look promising. And a few women I’ve heard from love them. If you try one, let me know how you like it and why: [email protected]

Here are several. (Hat tip to my readers Emily Sue Morris and Joyce Devenny Elling for some of these suggestions!)

Bungalow clothing  – You get 5-10 items – or more if requested; prepaid return label, return within 5 days.

Stitch Fix

Front Door Fashion  – Free shipping; you pay for shipping on exchanges; return within 5 days. In-person consultations are available in the Dallas area.

Le Tote –  Clothing rental site: 3 items, 2 accessories recommended; you select what you want, try it all on, send back what you don’t want and are only charged for what you keep, wear as long as you like, then send back and another outfit is recommended.

Natalie Attired – A stylist is assigned to you. Give them a budget, no shipping charges either way, but a $20 fee is charged for each box, and applied to what you keep.

Stitch Fix – You determine delivery schedule; $20 fee applied to what you keep; you choose your price points. Wide range of sizes including Petites and Maternity.

Trunk Club – Higher end quality items. Personal stylist speaks with you by phone, or if you’re in a major city, you can drop into one of their bricks and mortar sites for a style consultation.

Wantable  – Two categories: Collections (accessories, make-up and intimates) or Edits (Fitness and Style.) 5-7 items, low to mid-end.

And for Plus size women:

Gwinnie Bee – Sizes 10-32. Rent or buy., Free 30-day trial, unlimited exchanges.

Plvsh Style  – Boxes average $500 for 5 items; personal stylists available to guide you. On a schedule or as you request shipment.

And if you’re the type who lives for the site of the UPS truck, (uh, I think that’s called a shopping addiction…) there’s a website called Boxes designed around subscription deliveries of all types: fashion, food, crafts, pets, beauty, kids, etc.

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Back in the early 1970s I lived in a group house in Berkeley with two roommates and one married couple. The wife in the couple, Donna, was an aspiring designer. But the pieces she created were the polar opposite of the tie-dye and bohemian hippie garb of the era. Her dresses – and they were mostly dresses and tunic-like tops – were simply draped pieces of fabric in neutral colors that skimmed the body.  Her husband commented that she was way ahead of her time and that women wouldn’t embrace this look until sometime in the future.

Today, some 40 years later, “minimalism” in fashion is everywhere. The appeal is largely a reflection of our times. A lot of younger women are opting for simplicity in all areas of their lives: smaller living spaces, fewer clothes. (Cuyana,  featured above, bears the motto “Fewer things, better things.”) For many in the 50+ demographic these styles appeal because their silhouettes are very forgiving for an aging body. And the minimalist influence pervades much of the mass merchandise market now ( J.Jill comes to mind.) The long denim coat dress to the right is the most popular of all my Pinterest images lately. You won’t find patterns or prints or boho adornment. It’s possible that all this is simply a backlash against some of the wilder outfits coming out the couture houses these past few years.

What is Minimalism?

Minimalism is a cross between the Natural, Dramatic and Classic style archetypes. It’s Natural because the pieces are loose and un-constructed. It has some Dramatic due to the sometimes exaggerated silhouettes. And its simple lines read as somewhat Classic. If you have a fair amount of Romantic, Youthful, and/or High Spirited style facets or are a mostly Lively Bright color type, you’ll have to dig around to find some of these that will work for you. With some exceptions, almost all the minimalist design houses work primarily with neutral colors. And with very few exceptions, they all use natural fibers: cotton, linen, silk, cashmere. Let’s look at a few of them.

The grandmother of the minimalism movement is Eileen Fisher (on the left here.) Only fairly recently has she veered from her traditional denser fabric choices, and is now showing some pieces that could possibly work for some Angelic and Romantic style types because of her new choice of fabrics. These lacy weaves and sheer tunics to the right are two examples. 

Everlane is one of my personal favorites because they offer high quality, are reasonably priced, and they treat their manufacturing plant workers very well. They often add a few seasonal colors to the collection, like this pale pink silk shirt on the left, making something available for a variety of  color harmonies.

Another popular site is COS, the acronym for Collection of Style. COS is a design arm of H&M. Their pieces reflect the Scandinavian simplicity of line and design but tend to be pretty boxy and exaggerated in shape. This green silk on the right is an elegant exception.

Kit and Ace feature quality silks at affordable price points (like this peach silk sleeveless top.) And truthfully, you might say that Donna Karan started the trend decades ago with her couture designs. (And no – she wasn’t the Donna who was my roommate back in the 70’s, alas…)

The minimalism fashion field is rapidly growing and new manufacturers seem to be popping up monthly. Here are three more sites to check out: Vince  Grana  Stella Carakasi

So – would you wear any of these? Let me know why or why not. And if you’re not sure whether they would work for you, send me a photo or check out the style type questionnaire in Shopping for the Real You.

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A good foundation of quality pieces in your neutrals can form the basis of a great wardrobe. Of course, your neutrals aren’t always available on the racks each year or each season.

This year you’ll see black and white everywhere. (I imagine the CEO of Black Market and White House is doing a happy dance.) And not everyone can wear it.

The juxtaposition of black and white automatically says, “contrast” and in this case it’s a strong one. You can’t get a more dramatic example of contrast than black and white except, maybe, with red and black. Unless you have a lot of Strong Contrast in your own coloring and/or a fair amount of drama, tread lightly on this black-and-white trend. Here are a few examples of how it has been done successfully.

The dotted jumpsuit doesn’t have a lot of contrast and reads as more Youthful than a lot of black and white prints. Those with a lot of the Spring color essence can likely wear this well, as the print is smaller in scale and not overpowering. A little “quiet” but we’re talking about neutrals after all.

How does a primarily Subtle Blended essence woman do black and white? Subtley. Her version will likely be more gray and white to complement her more subtle coloring. In this case, the “gray” is a blue-gray version that suits her better than a charcoal. (Cute combo, btw…) Her white may or may not be this bright either, but overall it can likely work for this color type.

Our Fall girl also has to be very careful. Some Falls also have a good deal of Winter, or strong contrast  (this includes some Latin American, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean women) so for them it might work. In general, though, their white needs to be a bit more yellow or creamier than stark white, and their black is often charcoal. But wearing them in large amounts together can really wash out someone with a lot of Fall color essence.

And then there’s gray – to which I devoted an entire blog post a while ago. Check it out here. Victoria Beckham – who has a fair amount of the Earthy Rich color essence, wears this gray beautifully. (It’s likely from her own collection.)

There are the neutrals for Classic pieces that for  different color essences. Not everyone looks good in camel, not everyone looks good in khaki.   Khaki has, actually, some green in it. Camel has more red. Tan has yellow and Beige is a whitened version of brown and works for someone with brighter spring coloring.  Train your eye to see the subtle differences and how they affect your skin tone.

You can go for safe by wearing neutrals in half body amounts away from your face, but those times you want to make a more powerful statement wear all one neutral. (That is something that works amazingly well for older women who have let their hair go naturally white and who have strong bone structure.)

Yes, I know in the “street style” Instagram images of fashionistas you’ll see them wearing black and white and a plethora of colors regardless of their own color essences, but they make a living doing this. Wouldn’t you rather create color harmony with your own essence?

Learn about your unique color harmony and style facets by answering the detailed questionnaire in Shopping for the Real You. 

 

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Well!

I asked you all to write in about your biggest fashion frustration…and got quite an earful. It appears that a lot of you share the same concerns, obstacles, and challenges with the whole process of shopping. Thank you one and all for taking the time to write. Here’s a summary that pretty much covers all your rants. Do these resonate?

 

        There’s a serious lack of quality these days

        I hate polyester – isn’t anything made of natural fibers any more? 

        I’m SO frustrated with the lack of cool clothes for anyone over 50

        I’m sick of sleeveless everything

        Nothing fits

        I don’t know how to express my personal style

        What do I do about hair color when I age?

I feel your pain and I hope to address a lot of these issues in upcoming blog posts – individually. They will each require a lot of thought.

 

And speaking of fashion frustration, and the whole concept of “fitting in” you will love this (if you don’t know about Jeanne Robertson, you should! – and if a popup appears – just hit the  “x”- to delete – it’s not from me…)

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The post Your fashion rants…a summary appeared first on Shopping for the Real You.

Well!

I asked you all to write in about your biggest fashion frustration…and got quite an earful. It appears that a lot of you share the same concerns, obstacles, and challenges with the whole process of shopping. Thank you one and all for taking the time to write. Here’s a summary that pretty much covers all your rants. Do these resonate?

 

        There’s a serious lack of quality these days

        I hate polyester – isn’t anything made of natural fibers any more? 

        I’m SO frustrated with the lack of cool clothes for anyone over 50

        I’m sick of sleeveless everything

        Nothing fits

        I don’t know how to express my personal style

        What do I do about hair color when I age?

I feel your pain and I hope to address a lot of these issues in upcoming blog posts – individually. They will each require a lot of thought.

For now, if you’re feeling frustrated with adorning the outside of you, soothe your soul with some inner inspiration: there’s still time to sign up for Therese Christofferson’s Ageless Revolution free podcast series (my interview airs on the 16th):

http://agelesslivingrevolution.com/an...

And speaking of fashion frustration, and the whole concept of “fitting in” you will love this (if you don’t know about Jeanne Robertson, you should! – and if a popup appears – just hit the  “x”- to delete – it’s not from me…) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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