I made my selection from the box labelled 'tomate ancienne 5,90 le kg.' Three only, but chosen with care and weighing in heavily at just over a kilo. Plus une aubergine. "Merci beaucoup. Bonne journée." I turned to go. "Attendez." And a huge handful of sweet smelling basil was plucked from a basket behind the market stall and tucked in beside my tomatoes.                  It was early but I had