For more than ten years the Italian restaurant next door to my office has been my “go to” place for a quick lunch with friends and clients. No drive, no parking, good food, and the added benefit of supporting a neighbor. But a few months ago, sadly, Mezzo Mondo closed its doors and vanished.

As I left my office yesterday evening I noticed a new Japanese restaurant had taken its place. The lights were bright, liveried valet on duty, a smiling hostess at the front door, three waiters hovering,...